Classic Motorsports TR6 Buyers Guide article

[UberXY]

This was posted on FB today. If it has been posted here before, please forgive and delete.

http://classicmotorsports.com/articles/tech-tips-triumph-tr6/

[tr250]

Good info in that article. Our buyers guide is different and in many ways more thorough. The article also brought up some good tips on carbs, suspension, and bonnet release, but none are actual prebuy issues. I will say that knowing upgrades that are out there isn?t a bad thing

[KeithStewart]

... also, if you have not taken a look, the free Glovebox Companion is nice little resource.

[lfmTR4]

I just cut that out of the magazine to keep. Found it pretty interesting.

[ima68tr]

I found the first expert's advice good. The farther down I went the less I agreed with. Richard Good's first paragraph was fine, then came plugs for his wares. I take particular exception to solid rack mounts as I believe themto degrade rack teeth and find the originals to be every bit equal to their task for all but the most severe competition requirements - if properly tightened, of course.

Carburetor advice was likewise a mixed bag, much of it valid but some quite fraught with unmentioned caveats, e.g. when you change pistons you lose the critical leak balance ( factory set and sealed ) which determines the piston drop rate in conjunction with the springs, all of which is highly ticklish and knife-edge sensitive where perfect idling is concerned. And perfect idling is original to the carb TR6 and TR250, a lovely and valued trait which offsets in part the underpowered tuning of those engines. Vacuum retard in fact improves the idle quality in my experience. A sensitive ear will note a relative lope when this is disabled, compared to the retarded one.

Bonnet releases beyond the originals proliferate, but stuck ones can be released in about 10 minutes using a long screwdriver through the scuttle grommet closest to the latch. The only time I had one stick in 40+ years was due to [ repro ] cable failure ( slippage of the sheath ).

Nice TR6 in the pic, the mirror suggesting '69 or '70 ( can't make out if the windshield frame is black ). Glad to see the press for TRs anytime .

Tom

[tr250]

I found the first expert's advice good. The farther down I went the less I agreed with. Richard Good's first paragraph was fine, then came plugs for his wares. I take particular exception to solid rack mounts as I believe them to degrade rack teeth and find the originals to be every bit equal to their task for all but the most severe competition requirements - if properly tightened, of course.

Carburetor advice was likewise a mixed bag, much of it valid but some quite fraught with unmentioned caveats, e.g. when you change pistons you lose the critical leak balance ( factory set and sealed ) which determines the piston drop rate in conjunction with the springs, all of which is highly ticklish and knife-edge sensitive where perfect idling is concerned. And perfect idling is original to the carb TR6 and TR250, a lovely and valued trait which offsets in part the underpowered tuning of those engines. Vacuum retard in fact improves the idle quality in my experience. A sensitive ear will note a relative lope when this is disabled, compared to the retarded one.

Bonnet releases beyond the originals proliferate, but stuck ones can be released in about 10 minutes using a long screwdriver through the scuttle grommet closest to the latch. The only time I had one stick in 40+ years was due to [ repro ] cable failure ( slippage of the sheath ).

Nice TR6 in the pic, the mirror suggesting '69 or '70 ( can't make out if the windshield frame is black ). Glad to see the press for TRs anytime .

Tom

Trapezoid mirror...69

[ima68tr]

Trapezoid mirror...69

I once saw an ad for the 1970 featuring a white TR6 with that mirror too.

Tom