Popped up today on BaT - 1976 BRG

[baws]

You know, you have a 50/50 shot at getting the wipers and lenses for the side lamps right and he got those wrong. Would this make you wonder how he did with say the brakes or universal joints? I can't believe the redlines aren't on the inside.

The front side light lenses are even marked, "L" & "R". However I see them swapped wrong way all the time. Most owners are thankful when I point this out to them, others make lame excuses like it's more aerodynamic fitted bass-ackwards. :S

[wbwood]

Wow! This is a tough crowd. Here's another example of a failed "50/50 shot to get it right" -- the horn button is attached to the steering wheel with the Triumph "open book" logo upside down. Interesting that the logo on the gear shift knob, shown in the same picture, is correctly positioned.

[Guest]

"tough crowd". I disagree :angry: Observant and passing on info to potential buyers A lot of us have been burned before :blink: So whenever we can help another 6 owner not get burnt, more power to it.

[wbwood]

Sorry, HG. I didn't intend for my use of the term "tough crowd" to be taken in a negative sense. After all, I then added my own (minor) criticism to the list of problems with the car.

[rjrdomer]

Upon further inspection of the pictures, this is what I also see: no grill badge, no fender badge which should only be on the right side for a N.A. 1976 car, no rocker trim strips, rockers are not blacked out with Shultz, bolts on top crash pad are all wrong, no glovebox door catch strap, center console is not bolted in, no switch plinth light bar, no interior light switch, and wrong buttons on the doors for the tonneau cover. Not to mention, what is that pipe running behind the brake booster? You have to be kidding me. This is just stuff I see. It could go on and on.

The car is a mess, no doubt about it, but some 76 cars had both Leyland fender badges. Mine does and is completely original. I've been told that some 76 cars had them, others didn't, others had one. All depended on the mood of the factory that day.

[rjrdomer]

The car is rough because they started with a rough car. If you start with a decent car as a restoration candidate, you'll come out with a better finished product. The body and frame issues wouldn't be here as they are. The interior, trim, coachwork mistakes are just a result of shoddy restoration work. The welded frame is a result of trying to cross two crows to make an eagle.

The paint underneath the rockers is wrong too.

[John Janota]

I suspect that the owner was just another "check writer" who outsourced a lot of the restoration (if not all?) to a shop. Them not being TR6-focused per se, you start to see parts bolted on backwards and the such. But who really knows.

No front badge sticks out like a sore thumb.

[tkamd73]

I agree with all, however, with everything wrong, how did they get the paint, and panel gaps so right.
Beautiful car, if the last bid was close, best candidate for a Ratco frame I've ever seen. The frame is the big issue, everything else that you can see relatively easy. Anyone read the comment from a so called expert, about depressing the accelerator pedal, to make the choke cable easier to pull out? How does that work?
Tim

[damsonTR6]

He's right it does. The flat part of the choke cams makes it hard to pull out unless you get the actuators on the linkage are out of the way by pressing down on the pedal.

[baws]

He's right it does. The flat part of the choke cams makes it hard to pull out unless you get the actuators on the linkage are out of the way by pressing down on the pedal.

One of the first things I learned when I got my 6, slightly used, in 1975. The PO had already split the vinyl on the plinth by using it for leverage when pulling out the choke.
Now it's second nature when using the choke. Mine is original and has the turn and lock feature that some repros do not.

[tkamd73]

Mine does not have the turn to lock feature, just friction. Stepping on the accerator pedal does nothing. Stock carbs and acceierator linkage on a 74. Tim