Price changes over the past 1 - 1 and 1/2 Years

[skootch13]

Wow Aaron, that does check a lot of boxes. Not going to get much closer. It’s being sold by a dealer Jon, why don’t you ask them to put it on a lift and send you some pictures of the frame or for that matter FaceTime and ask them to point the phone at the areas you are interested in and talk over questions you may have?

edit: never mind, frame pictures are there. Just OD missing which can be added.

Original floorboards suggest this is a desert/ west coast/ southern car that has never seen salt. Panel gaps look great. Rear fender seams are clear.

Jon, JUMP MAN!!!!!!!!! This is you hen's teeth next to a needle in a haystack.

[JonS]

Here is the second stalk on mine, it’s behind the turn signals


If you get an OD gear box it’s just a swap and adding the electrical harness and switch.

Thanks so much. So what it is, is a different turn signal switch. It is a switch that has two stocks on it, one for the directionals and one for the OD. Now I get it and see how that could work. Still confused about what other parts in the driveline would have to change to accommodate the OD unit, which if my memory is correct is nearly 8 or 9 inches.

[tr250]

If you’re swapping in a complete trans/overdrive and it’s A-Type OD there are no mechanical bits to change out. You’ll need some electrical wiring bits (sub harnesses, relay, & switch)

[JonS]

If you’re swapping in a complete trans/overdrive and it’s A-Type OD there are no mechanical bits to change out. You’ll need some electrical wiring bits (sub harnesses, relay, & switch)

Ah... so you don't just add the OD, you have to get a new trans designed to work with the OD -- that makes sense. Then it must be the case that the total length of the trans plus the OD is the same length of a trans w/o OD. It would have to be that way.

BTW - I keep trying to get West cost classics, one number is on ebay and the other on the listing in Hemmings. Either out of service/busy or nobody there. I will keep going and ask for details of the frame. If I can get my issues resolved and the car is not sold, I could ask someone in California to look at it.

[poolboy]

From the MOSS catalog
https://mossmotors.com/triumph-tr6-250
There is but one drive shaft for all the variations be that the 4 speed, the added J-type or the added A-type Over drives
https://mossmotors.com/drive-shaft-a...es?assoc=44498
2 switches....one for turn indicator, another separate for the OD.
https://mossmotors.com/switch-turn-s...ve?assoc=53265
https://mossmotors.com/switch-overdrive-3

[JonS]

From the MOSS catalog
https://mossmotors.com/triumph-tr6-250
There is but one drive shaft for all the variations be that the 4 speed, the added J-type or the added A-type Over drives
https://mossmotors.com/drive-shaft-a...es?assoc=44498
2 switches....one for turn indicator, another separate for the OD.
https://mossmotors.com/switch-turn-s...ve?assoc=53265
https://mossmotors.com/switch-overdrive-3

Thanks very much. I looked at both switches and I simply don't remember how both fit on the steering column. The images that lfmTR4 posted clearly shows them there. I guess they both fit on the column. This is good to know since, if I get this one or another down the road and it looks good but for the OD, I know it could be retrofit.

[lfmTR4]

This should clear things up

http://trf.zeni.net/TR6greenbook/27.php.

[JonS]

This should clear things up

http://trf.zeni.net/TR6greenbook/27.php.

Ah... now I get it and thanks for helping me understand. I had to check in the diagram to see the dimmer is on the right hand side (EQ7). I thought it was on the floor on the left side.

[poolboy]

The "dip switch" for the headlights is on the floor for 69 thru 72.

[JonS]

The "dip switch" for the headlights is on the floor for 69 thru 72.

Thanks, that is consistent with what I remember.

[JonS]

Original floorboards suggest this is a desert/ west coast/ southern car that has never seen salt. Panel gaps look great. Rear fender seams are clear.

Jon, JUMP MAN!!!!!!!!! This is you hen's teeth next to a needle in a haystack.

I have been trying to call, but no luck. I just can not do this, this week. I am sure another will come up, perhaps it may take some months. This particular car makes me wonder about two things though:

1. Is it better to get a restored (perhaps with some reinforcement near the trailing arms etc.) chassis, or one like this appears to be in good shape and original - how strong could that be?
2. I remember we used to take a Phillips head screwdriver and go under these cars and poke around. That would tell if you had a very bad chassis, but not one on the edge. How would people go about checking this out on something like the car we are talking about? I know there are people in different areas of the country that will help with the inspection, I was just curious.

One last P.S --- this has gotten to be a long string. Perhaps it should be "Helping Jon get all his questions answered so he can get a TR6:-)). I appreciate everyones input.

While I am at it, does anyone ever get any type of loan to but these or does everyone pay 100% cash?

[lfmTR4]

Cant help with the loan, I bought mine cash and then sunk more money into it ;-) On the early cars like mine, the light switch is on the right with flash to pass and hi beam dipper on the floor.

Have you tried contacting them through eBay or email? They like a lot of us might not be working from the usual office.

[JonS]

Cant help with the loan, I bought mine cash and then sunk more money into it ;-) On the early cars like mine, the light switch is on the right with flash to pass and hi beam dipper on the floor.

Have you tried contacting them through eBay or email? They like a lot of us might not be working from the usual office.

Thanks, the action on this car expires this week so I won't buy it. I can pay cash for the car but was thinking if I financed a bit, I might have $$$ for work on it. That said, if I buy one for 30 -35 it should be in pretty great shape.

[tr250]

Thanks, the action on this car expires this week so I won't buy it. I can pay cash for the car but was thinking if I financed a bit, I might have $$$ for work on it. That said, if I buy one for 30 -35 it should be in pretty great shape.

i wouldn’t worry too much this isn’t the cars first go-round on eBay

[Steve]

Take the time to determine what tradeoffs you are willing to make, I made some tradeoffs and 19 years later couldn't be happier. About a year before I left California I spent a lot of time looking for a Damson 6, I didn't care about the year but it hd to be the original color. I looked at a lot of cars and in the end chose a Jasmine 69 from the Central Valley (as noted you have to like the color, it was always a close second to Damson for me, it is just so period). My car is accident free, rust free, has original paint and all the oddball 69 stuff like fender beading, and I love the key on the dash support (but you can do that to a later car). I converted to OD (with a box and OD out of 69 I collected when I lived in the UK). Converting to OD is easy and way less painful than changing color or even a paint job in the same color. These days a 5 speed conversion might be easier from finding the parts POV. Know what you want but be clear on where you are willing to be flexible.
Happy hunting, Steve