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TR6 Hathaway Hunter. Now for something completely different

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  • Hey Justin,
    In regard to the rear mounting, the plate with the rubber bushings has the ability to be moved up or back in the frame rails by a couple of inches. (there are several holes on each side of the frame)
    Also, there is a L shaped metal bracket that will attach to the OD mounting that will give you an additional 3 inches forward. This is the plate that is used to attach the stock non-OD transmission.
    I have this bracket if you need it.
    Tom

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    • So i've wasted most of a week because i've been to busy with work to get in the garage, but tomorrow I'm making the new transmission mount, cutting out the fiberglass that needs to be removed in the tunnel, and mounting up the flexplate, spacer, and bushings.

      I was over thinking the whole rear transmission mount. There is absolutely no reason that I need to use the angled cradle bracket that the TR6 used, it will be simplicity itself to run a bar straight across the frame, have 2 bushing mounted straight up, and then bolt a big piece of angle iron to the existing mount on the transmission and have it done with no fuss no mess no welding.

      As to the location of the rear mount, it's already at the far forward position from having mounted the HVDA transmission there =)

      In doing some reading I may want to use my other engine back plate instead of modifying this one just because of one other minor difference which I hadnt noticed in all the photos. There are 4 holes in the automatic backing plate which are chamfered and relieved for flat hex head bolts to fit into. These apparently are used to make sure the flex plate doesn't rub against 4 bolts that the flywheel would normally clear just fine.

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      • Out with the old, in with the new (old) In the 2nd image you can see the bolts that are replaced by special ridged bevel flat head hex bolts, with machined ridges both inside the backplate and on the bevels of the bolt to keep them from backing out. They're the reason I didnt just put a hole in the one that was on there with a holesaw.





        The 3 5/16 UNF 2" studs at the top need to be replaced with 2.5 inch studs, unfortunately none of the stores near me had UNF studs, so I had to order some from mcmaster and they wont be here till later in the week.

        I have run into one issue which i'm researching tonight. I went to put the flexplate on, and I have 2 different spacers, one which is used, and which measures .590 and a new one which measures .645 and I cant figure out which is 'right' or if I should just try each of them and determine which one the spacing is correct and which one is too tight or loose. I cant seem to find anywhere that lists the proper thickness for the spacer between the crankshaft and the flexplate.

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        • Justin, the spacer should be setting the depth of the flexplate/flywheel upon which mounts the torque convertor and then it fits into the front pump assembly and that cannot be too deep.

          Have you test fit the convertor to the pump and checked it's overall position relative to the depth inside the transmission case and how far out the spacer sits?

          In other words, with the spacer on, how far will it push the convertor back into the transmission case?

          EDIT:

          Also, the heads of the convertor bolts coming through the back of the flexplate will have to be able to clear the bolt heads mounting the rear cover plate to the block assembly as the flexplate rotates.

          Comment



          • Also, the heads of the convertor bolts coming through the back of the flexplate will have to be able to clear the bolt heads mounting the rear cover plate to the block assembly as the flexplate rotates.
            The alan-head bolts for the rear engine plate are the ones that are in the path of the flexplate bolts (which are just plain 3/8 UNF thread bolts) so that shouldn't be an issue since Iv'e got the proper rear engine plate on it now.

            This afternoon I've been playing with the bellhousing + converter and some straight edges to try to figure out which spacer is correct. Unfortunately I can not find any listings for the BW65 and this space! I can find all sorts of ford and GM TC spacing numbers (i.e. Ford C6 1 1/8 inch from bellhouse face to TC, GM TH400 1 3/16) but no numbers offhand for the BW65. I know it has to be in deep enough for the 2 teeth on the TC to engage the pump, as well as far enough in for the splines on the bw65 input shaft to engage the splines on the turbine inside the TC, but it seems there's a a good .250 travel in which both of them engage, so do I jsut set it in the middle ? I'm going to see if i can find some service manuals from either 2500TC or STAG cars since they each used the bw65. The TR7 used it too but iv'e already dug through my books and it doesnt give the number.

            I also have 2 center stiffening plates, the car I got myflexplate from had a stiffening plate on each side of the flexplate, I suppose these can also be used as .060 shims to move the flexplate & TC in and out if I fabricate a few extras using the originals as a template.

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            • What news Justin?
              Best Therapy
              http://www.britishv8.org/Triumph/AlbertGary.htm
              Zoom Zoom

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              • Gosh! Anyone heard anything from Justin?
                Best Therapy
                http://www.britishv8.org/Triumph/AlbertGary.htm
                Zoom Zoom

                Comment


                • I think he got into carpentry and .......

                  Somebody can probably buy the project in a few more years.
                  72 Pimento w/overdrive - Lilred
                  67 4A Royal Blue - Lilblue

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                  • I'll be first in line.

                    Comment


                    • I haven't seen him either Al. Maybe he'll show at British Legends weekend next week. He usually attends that show every year.

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                      • So um... Hi.... I'm thinking about putting this up for sale. I lost my motivation, got busy with life, started forging swords in my spare time, and I think it's finally time to let this go to somewhere else that it can be finished and appreciated. I'll be making a more detailed post later. Boxes and crates of parts , what's done, what's left to be done, etc.

                        Comment


                        • baws
                          baws commented
                          Editing a comment
                          Hello Justin, glad to see you. Looking forward to further posts and pictures.

                      • 1976 Triumph TR6 Hathaway Hunter Roadster

                        Unfinished project car, close to being on the road.

                        What's there
                        Completely restored frame off TR6 rolling chassis with countless performance upgrades from TSI, GoodParts, RimmerBros and more.

                        Original Vintage Motorworks Hathaway Hunter roadster kit from late 1983 / early 1984 before Chuck Hunter passed away.

                        Original restoration was well documented on 6-pack at https://forums.6-pack.org/the-6-pack...n-begins-today

                        When direction changed from TR6 resto to Hunter Roadster, changed forum thread to https://forums.6-pack.org/the-6-pack...tely-different

                        The images still work but you have to right click open in another window, they no longer imbed in the thread.
                        some albums with many / most of the images from the 2 threads
                        http://www.tharkis.com/thumbs.py?path=images/tr6/resto
                        http://www.tharkis.com/thumbs.py?pat...s/tr6/hathaway

                        Restoration got stalled after discovering the dash was too low and foot pedal space too small for me to physically shift it. This led to hunting down the bolt-on conversion bits for changing the transmission to a BW65 3 speed automatic from a triumph 2500 saloon. The parts have been obtained, and a new driveshaft manufactured, but the transmission has not been installed. rear transmission mount bracket needs to be fabricated, coolant lines for the transmission cooler need to be run.

                        The dashboard wiring and the tail lights have not been finished, but the front wiring, engine, fuel pump, headlights, turn signals, etc have all been wired. The engine runs fine, but can not be started at the moment without the flex-plate installed for the starter to engage, as the transmission is only test fit for having had the new driveshaft made and fabricating the transmission mounts. All the parts to convert back to standard are still with the project except for the standard transmission itself.

                        A new throttle linkage adapter needs to be created for the TR7 automatic zenith stromberg linkage included so that the throttle to gas pedal and throttle to BW65 kick-down cable can be synchronized.

                        A GPS speedometer pulse generator is with the parts but not yet wired to the spedo, as the dashboard wiring is not finished outside of the ignition switch and the steering column / horns / turn signals.

                        The engine timing needs to be done with the distributor, right now it's very advanced, as the engine was previously running with mikuni carburetors. The engine does not have an anti-run-on valve and the carbon cannister to ARV line needs to be run down the frame from the top of the gas tank.

                        A number of the front body to frame mounts were temporary fabrications to get everything fit, with the intent to use them as templates to weld up final permanent brackets. In the 30 years between the kit being manufactured and reaching myself, the box with most of the kit mounting brackets was and the fuel tank were lost, so only some of the rear mounting brackets were included. A new aluminum gas tank was fabricated to spec by Boyd Welding.

                        The passenger door is not yet fit to the body, and needs some major fiber glass work to properly fit.

                        I have kept over $34,000 in receipts from the project in folders

                        Some of the upgrades to the chassis over stock are as follows

                        TSI Toyota front calipers kit with Goodparts drilled and slotted front rotors
                        TSI rebuilt and powder coated brake booster
                        TSI steel braided oil pressure hose

                        Goodparts adjustable trailing arm brackets
                        Goodparts Nylatron rear suspension bushing kit
                        Goodparts Heavy duty front spindles
                        Goodparts uprated front and rear springs (390lb front, 470lb rear)
                        Goodparts aluminium steering rack mount kit
                        Goodparts Nissan R200 LSD differential installed with kit. 3.54
                        Goodparts driveshaft fit for BW65
                        Goodparts uprated rear wheel cylinders (7/8" bore)

                        AAW wiring harness

                        Brand new set of Dayton tubeless wire wheels with brand new tires

                        Gustafson high torque starter
                        Procomp 16 inch electric fan
                        TRF Urethane front suspension bushings

                        Rear trailing arm studs done with Patton keensert kit

                        Electric performance rotary fuel pump
                        quick ratio steering rack
                        KYB Rear tube shock conversion

                        Brand new set of Smiths Magnolia gauges with Electronic spedo and tach.

                        Engine mods

                        1: Block modifications
                        a. Late block, decked plus .030, motor numbers are milled away
                        b. Align bored
                        c. Cylinders bored .030 over
                        2: Crank shaft balanced, with polished treated oil passages
                        3: Stock flywheel, lightened and balanced
                        4: Early high compression head
                        a. Milled head to 44 cc's per chamber for 9.98:1 compression ratio
                        b. gasket matched and polished ports
                        5: Late stock rods, balanced, ARP rod bolts
                        6: standard Vandervell main and rod bearings
                        7: Hepolite pistons .030 milled off the top for zero deck height and balanced (see 1.a above)
                        8: Deves rings
                        9: Good Parts GP2 cam and dual springs
                        10: 1.55:1 roller rockers
                        11: Tubular chrome moly push rods
                        12: Bronze valve guides with seals
                        13: Fuel regulator for use with electric pump
                        14: Stock oil pan with custom windage tray
                        15: HD Cam chain/sprocket set
                        16: Fan and fan extension removed.

                        Boyd Welding custom aluminum gas tank
                        Factory 5 seats and bumper overriders.
                        Extra complete set of headlight assembly, glass, adjusters, bezels
                        Complete interior kit in box, as well as the soft top. Soft top does not have snaps installed in it yet to match the windshield.

                        Here is a link to an album of photos of most of what is in the parts boxes that go with this project.
                        http://www.tharkis.com/thumbs.py?pat...rsale/tr6parts

                        $18,000 or offer. Bring a trailer. If you are within a couple hundred miles of Rhode Island, I can help transport the crates of parts in my cargo van as well.‚Äč

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                        Last edited by justin.mercier; 09-19-2022, 09:04 PM.

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                        TR6 Hathaway Hunter. Now for something completely different

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