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  • #16
    Thanks to Safire6 and Tim_Moore, appreciate your responses.

    Kevin - "quieter and smoother ride" - that's what I'm looking for. Good tip about the R200. However, you may have seen on the GP website, that there is now a kit for diffs originating from Nissan 350Z and 370Z, which are much more recent and plentiful. Richard terms this as the "R200B" differential. I think I'd prefer to go that route than an R200 from the old Infiniti that may have Starship Enterprise miles on it:

    https://www.goodparts.com/product-ca...d-driveshafts/

    Another question for those that have installed the GP hubs: Just looking at the pic of the hubs - the flange which mounts on the TA studs appears to be much thicker than the flange on the stock hubs. Do you need longer studs? If so, are they same thread as stock? It's just that I have Keenserts in the TAs, and would not want to have to re-drill or whatever....
    Keith, Huntsville AL, 1971 CC66559U
    10.0:1 CR gasflowed head | Weber DCOEs | CP "150hp" Cam | Distibutor by Advanced | Lightened flywheel | Phoenix SS Exhaust System | HVDA 5-Speed | Good Parts suspension and anti-roll bars | Good Parts Dual Brake Master Cylinder | Konig Rewinds | Boyd 15 gal tank | Miata Seats and Mr Mikes covers | Carl Visser dash | Mohair hood | Gas-strut bonnet and boot lift kits

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    • Wolf76STL
      Wolf76STL commented
      Editing a comment
      Good point about the "R200B". Richard did not have that on his site when i purchased my 250's R200. If I were ordering today, I'd go with the R200B -LSD
      Cheers,
      Kevin

  • #17
    stock studs
    Attached Files

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    • #18
      Keith - I had done the Keensert modification on my trailing arms and my GP CV axle/hub installation did not require any additional modifications. I ordered the set up from RG with slightly longer lug bolts in anticipation of alloy wheels at some point in the future.
      CF28612UO - Pimento/Chestnut/Overdrive/Hardtop
      Folsom, CA - Yeah, near the prison!

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    • #19
      Sorry, I am a bit late to this discussion but thought I should respond to a few questions.

      When I designed these CV axles my goal was to use the strongest joint that I could fit into the trailing arm. I felt that choosing a smaller, weaker joint that would fit into the worst case trailing arm with no modification would sacrifice too much strength. The joints I use will fit into most trailing arms with little or no grinding. On some trailing arms, the casting is poorly aligned to the machined area where the hub mounts so more grinding may be required on one side. Some manufacturers with designs similar to ours have chosen to use smaller joints.

      No changes to mounting studs are required to install our hubs. The mounting flange on our hub is no more than .015" thicker that the original hubs that I have measured so the original length studs will work. As others previously mentioned the 5/16 fine thread mounting studs threading into the cast aluminum is a weak point. My preference is upgrading to 3/8 studs with coarse thread going into the trailing arm. Strengthening the original stud's connection into the trailing arm with threaded inserts like the Keenserts also works.

      Richard Good
      Good Parts Inc

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      • #20
        I just completed the GoodParts R200 and CV axle conversion this past winter and wanted to offer a comment about the "grinding" question. In my 76, I found a couple of spots in the TA where the new CV axle would not turn freely. I ground this down, per Richard's excellent printed instructions. It was not very difficult to do.
        In my experience, the hardest part of the job was bending the "t-shirt" to make more clearance for the driveshaft location on the R200. A strong crowbar and a big clamp from Harbor Freight finally did the trick.
        I am very pleased with the conversion and recommend doing business with GoodParts. They are truly making our little cars better than they were new.
        1976 Pimento/black
        VTO alloy "Minilites"
        Dolly Parton's removed
        GoodParts Nissan Diff and CV axles
        Carbs by Poolboy

        Comment


        • #21
          Originally posted by Ocularsharp View Post
          I just completed the GoodParts R200 and CV axle conversion this past winter and wanted to offer a comment about the "grinding" question. In my 76, I found a couple of spots in the TA where the new CV axle would not turn freely. I ground this down, per Richard's excellent printed instructions. It was not very difficult to do.
          In my experience, the hardest part of the job was bending the "t-shirt" to make more clearance for the driveshaft location on the R200. A strong crowbar and a big clamp from Harbor Freight finally did the trick.
          I am very pleased with the conversion and recommend doing business with GoodParts. They are truly making our little cars better than they were new.
          Thanks for the post. My shipment containing the diff and axles has not yet arrived, so we will see if grinding of the TAs is required - I have a selection of flap wheels, grinding wheels etc. available.

          Regarding the T-shirt....I'm really hoping not to have to bend it if I dont need to, so I'm going to wait and install the diff and see if I can get away without doing so - several people had mentioned they did not.

          The issue is I run a single large-bore exhaust pipe which fits the T-shirt very nicely right now, but if I have to distort it, clearance will become tight, and the pipe may be susceptible to rattles etc.
          Keith, Huntsville AL, 1971 CC66559U
          10.0:1 CR gasflowed head | Weber DCOEs | CP "150hp" Cam | Distibutor by Advanced | Lightened flywheel | Phoenix SS Exhaust System | HVDA 5-Speed | Good Parts suspension and anti-roll bars | Good Parts Dual Brake Master Cylinder | Konig Rewinds | Boyd 15 gal tank | Miata Seats and Mr Mikes covers | Carl Visser dash | Mohair hood | Gas-strut bonnet and boot lift kits

          Comment

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