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  • Moss Fuel pump

    Moss Fuel Pump.

    Well, they got me again.
    A little over a year ago we ordered a new fuel pump to go on Mike's car. Unfortunately, both the inlet and the outlet were set up for 5/16 pipe.
    Its supposed to be 1/4 on the outlet. I was told by someone at Moss to use a bigger compression sleeve. Well you can only use a 1/4 inch compression sleeve on a 1/4
    fuel pipe. We ended up using the original pump body and the new top since it had the original gold anodizing on it.

    I decided to try again hoping the problem had been resolved.
    I ask the sales person if the problem was resolved. He said he knew on no problems.
    Pump came in and it was right as far as the inlet and outlet pipes were concerned. The cap is now silver and not the gold anodized, but no big deal.
    Today we were going to try and start the 76 white car. Gas started pouring out the outlet fitting. Great, what's wrong now!!
    First we checked to make sure the fitting was tight, nope not that. So now I am thinking somehow it needs a new compression sleeve. Run to Ace to get a new sleeve., take the fuel
    pipe out of the car, cut off the old fitting and install new fitting. Re-install fuel pipe to fuel pump, Pump the primer on the fuel pump and gas still spits out the pipe.
    Ok, now the fuel pump has to come out for inspection. Not a fun job on a 76 with all the emissions plumbing blocking access to the fuel pump.
    Remove the plumbing and fight with the fuel pump.
    Compression sleeve was still loose on the fuel pipe.
    Put the new fuel pump up against the one that was on the car ( reproduction from Canada, just doesn't have the priming lever on it. Still works)
    The moss inlet looks deeper then other one. I drop a compression sleeve in both pumps. In the old pump the sleeve sits up. In the new Moss pump the compression sleeve
    is almost flush with the inner recession.
    Problem found: Compression nut can not put any pressure on compression sleeve to crimp on the fuel pipe. Nut was turned in as far as it would go on the fuel pump.
    I will call Moss tomorrow and send it back.

    I am looking for an original pump to rebuild, since a have a couple of kits.

    Al

  • #2
    Happened to see this one on the 'bay earlier on... Looks rebuildable.
    Keith, Huntsville AL, 1971 TR6
    10.0:1 CR gasflowed head | Weber DCOEs | CP "150hp" Cam | Good Parts Ram-Air induction | Distibutor by Advanced | Lightened flywheel | Phoenix SS Exhaust System | HVDA 5-Speed | Good Parts R200B Diff and CV axles | Good Parts suspension and anti-roll bars | Willwood Calipers and Vented Rotors | Good Parts Dual Brake Master Cylinder | Konig Rewinds | Boyd 15 gal tank | Miata Seats and Mr Mikes covers | Carl Visser dash | Mohair hood | Gas-strut bonnet and boot lift kits

    Comment


    • #3
      Just searched:
      ebay triumph tr6 fuel pump

      There is a TRF new Made in Italy pump in Wisconsin, auction ends in 1 hour.
      It's the new style TRF pump that sells for $90. Current bid $33.(7pm)

      There is a guy in Williamsport, PA selling TR6 fuel pump (think it is new) with a BIN of $60.


      You would have to ask about the size of the fittings.
      Walt
      CC80954U '72 TR6 original condition/sold 16.500.
      poolboy rebuilt the Z-S Carbs. Philstr6 rebuilt both rear hubs.

      Comment


      • #4
        I know the TRF pump works. I'am on it.
        Thanks
        Al

        Comment


        • #5
          This problem is not new. A couple of 6 Packers have said you can put two compression sleeves on the pipe and it will seal.
          R3
          Jim Herter,͏͏͏͏͏͏͏͏͏Copperas Cove, TX
          Original Owner ֍ 1970 TR6 CC 50990 LO

          Comment


          • #6
            This problem is not new. A couple of 6 Packers have said you can put two compression sleeves on the pipe and it will seal.
            I'm hoping that Moss will be monitoring this thread. The problem is NOT new however it still exists, and I'd imagine that more than a few of these pumps go out Moss' door. At the very least perhaps they could include correct compression fittings with the pump? Or have their supplier do a modification to the casting?

            Comment


            • #7
              Is it just me or is everyone seeing the time of my last post and yycdave's decrementing rather then incrementing? As soon as I posted, it said it posted 59 minutes ago, same for Dave. Must be daylight savings time kicking in a little early. :unsure:

              Edit: It's doing it again.
              R3
              Jim Herter,͏͏͏͏͏͏͏͏͏Copperas Cove, TX
              Original Owner ֍ 1970 TR6 CC 50990 LO

              Comment


              • #8
                Looks good now, Jim. Perhaps the site clock is powered by Lucas? :woohoo:

                Comment


                • #9
                  I grew tired of fiddling with those damn compression fittings and went with brass, barb fittings on the pump and simple rubber fuel lines into an out of the pump.
                  Both the pump that's in the car and the spare pump that I carry.
                  CF1634U+O Pimento/Chestnut
                  2nd owner, since 1975
                  Now in Fair Oaks, CA

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Hi Al and others,
                    I am forwarding this thread on to the head of quality control. Thank you for writing up the issues that you've had?and I apologize that you had to go through them in the first place! I'll let you know what I hear back!

                    David Stuursma

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Just sell the same pump that TRF sells and problem will be solved.
                      Walt
                      CC80954U '72 TR6 original condition/sold 16.500.
                      poolboy rebuilt the Z-S Carbs. Philstr6 rebuilt both rear hubs.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Bit of a digression, sorry, but since it's a fuel pump thread...anyone know what is the recommended washer to use under the bolt holding the dome on the top of the pump? Is it copper, or something flexible?

                        My rebuilt spare pump which I intend to haul around in the boot does not have any washer right now.
                        Keith, Huntsville AL, 1971 TR6
                        10.0:1 CR gasflowed head | Weber DCOEs | CP "150hp" Cam | Good Parts Ram-Air induction | Distibutor by Advanced | Lightened flywheel | Phoenix SS Exhaust System | HVDA 5-Speed | Good Parts R200B Diff and CV axles | Good Parts suspension and anti-roll bars | Willwood Calipers and Vented Rotors | Good Parts Dual Brake Master Cylinder | Konig Rewinds | Boyd 15 gal tank | Miata Seats and Mr Mikes covers | Carl Visser dash | Mohair hood | Gas-strut bonnet and boot lift kits

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          what is the recommended washer to use under the bolt holding the dome on the top of the pump?
                          Couldn't you turn the screw on your dome top in your TR6 and look?
                          Walt
                          CC80954U '72 TR6 original condition/sold 16.500.
                          poolboy rebuilt the Z-S Carbs. Philstr6 rebuilt both rear hubs.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Well, I could, and it would reveal the one I made from a piece of gasket material, and which took me multiple attempts to stop leaking.
                            Keith, Huntsville AL, 1971 TR6
                            10.0:1 CR gasflowed head | Weber DCOEs | CP "150hp" Cam | Good Parts Ram-Air induction | Distibutor by Advanced | Lightened flywheel | Phoenix SS Exhaust System | HVDA 5-Speed | Good Parts R200B Diff and CV axles | Good Parts suspension and anti-roll bars | Willwood Calipers and Vented Rotors | Good Parts Dual Brake Master Cylinder | Konig Rewinds | Boyd 15 gal tank | Miata Seats and Mr Mikes covers | Carl Visser dash | Mohair hood | Gas-strut bonnet and boot lift kits

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Keith, my old one and the one that came in the Then and Now rebuild kit were fiber. The new one was very stiff with no compression factor. It seeped a little, even after tightening as much as I dare. I ended up coating both sides with the black Permatex brush on and it?s dry with only a little tightness on the dome.

                              Comment

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