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  • Brakes sticking after lon layup question

    Took the E-Type out for the first time in a long while and the front brakes (hand brake has been off whilst parked) and the brakes are sticking.
    Any ideas on where to start to address the issue?

    Thanks
    CF1634U+O Pimento/Chestnut
    2nd owner, since 1975
    Now in Fair Oaks, CA

  • #2
    Hey Bruce - Age of the flex-lines? Are they rubber?

    They may be collapsing internally and not letting the fluid back up the pipe after you release the pedal. My TR6 did this shortly after I first got it, and it had been standing for 2-3 yrs at the time.

    Hard to tell from the outside of the brake lines though.
    Keith, Huntsville AL, 1971 TR6
    10.0:1 CR gasflowed head | Weber DCOEs | CP "150hp" Cam | Good Parts Ram-Air induction | Distibutor by Advanced | Lightened flywheel | Phoenix SS Exhaust System | HVDA 5-Speed | Good Parts R200B Diff and CV axles | Good Parts suspension and anti-roll bars | Willwood Calipers and Vented Rotors | Good Parts Dual Brake Master Cylinder | Konig Rewinds | Boyd 15 gal tank | Miata Seats and Mr Mikes covers | Carl Visser dash | Mohair hood | Gas-strut bonnet and boot lift kits

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    • #3
      Like Keith said.

      You want to determine which of the four brakes are locking up. So you know which one(s) need attention.
      A doable test would be to jack up each corner, one at a time, and have an assistant press the foot brake pedal whilst you attempt to spin the wheel- before and after brake pedal is pressed.
      The one(s) that lock up and don't spin will need to be delved into deeper.

      Perhaps remove the wheel, brake pads and caliper at the locked up wheel.
      With the caliper still attached to the brake flex hose, insert a short 2x4 block of wood between the pistons and while an assistant presses the brake pedal- you watch the action of the pistons.
      Ideally they should move against the block of wood when the brake pedal is depressed.
      And, they should retract when the pedal is released.

      If neither piston retracts, the likely culprit is the flex hose is internally collapsed.
      If one piston moves and the other does not move, then the caliper may need to be rebuilt, or cleaned with a spray release like Brakleen (sp?) to free the piston.

      It's just a pain in the back for a short time versus a big pain in the wallet to have a hired tech do it.
      Walt
      CC80954U '72 TR6 original condition/sold 16.500.
      poolboy rebuilt the Z-S Carbs. Philstr6 rebuilt both rear hubs.

      Comment


      • #4
        Thanks Keith, that thought occured to me as well. The flex lines may well be the originals. I got the wire wheels off and soaked the calipers in brake cleaner. The pads are free, but the pistons are not moving like they should be.
        Gonna try bleeding the front system. Unlike the TR, the front and rear brakes are totally separate, fluid wise, so a bleed is relatively easy.
        CF1634U+O Pimento/Chestnut
        2nd owner, since 1975
        Now in Fair Oaks, CA

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        • #5
          I bet they just need exercise.
          Driving a 1973 TR6
          Doing ZS carb repairs
          email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

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          • #6
            Originally posted by poolboy View Post
            I bet they just need exercise.
            Yup, what he said
            72 Pimento w/overdrive - Lilred
            67 4A Royal Blue - Lilblue

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            • #7
              Thanks guys! This has happened once before and the problem did go away after just a few hundred yards of driving.
              However this time the sticking was more severe. Currently the wheels on the front are off, pending further inspection. I'll keep you all posted.
              CF1634U+O Pimento/Chestnut
              2nd owner, since 1975
              Now in Fair Oaks, CA

              Comment


              • #8
                This story is about a drum brake system, but it might also be the issue here.

                About 30 years ago I bought a 1960 Buick LeSabre. It was in decent shape, restored after a fashion to driver condition. It was regularly driven before I bought it, but only short distances.

                I took it out on a 200 mile all day tour (with about 100 other cars) as a shake-down the next month. About 50 miles in, the left rear brake started smoking badly. When I pulled over those shoes were held fast against the drums, and that wheel would not turn except by driving the car, and then only reluctantly. The right wheel was fine.

                Both wheels shared the same rubber hose (solid axle), so that was not the problem.

                By pure dumb luck I had broke down directly in front of an amateur restorer's house, and he had a grease pit to work on cars. A lifesaver! On examination the metal line (original) to that wheel cylinder had corroded internally, and by virtue of the corrosion and accumulated dirt in the line a one-way check-valve situation had formed. Trying to bleed the line completed the plug. Eventually standing on the (power) brake pedal, engine running, line totally disconnected from the wheel cylinder (which retracted the shoes dutifully as soon as the pressure was released), could not bleed a drop out of that line. It was plugged like it was full of cement.

                I capped the line (just in case) and drove home on 3 wheel brakes. New stainless lines fixed the problem.

                It's not common, but if this is getting worse with use, as was mentioned, and a hose isn't the problem then this could be the issue.

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                • #9
                  Update, of sorts. All of the advice above is well taken and valid.
                  Aside from dismounting the front wheels and bleeding the front system, I've not done mush else due to other issues associated with bringing back a dormant vehicle.
                  Mostly coolant hoses, which have apparently, "perished", as they say.
                  Luckily, my stash of NOS or slightly used TR6 hoses have come in very useful, as I wait for for a backordered hose kit from Moss Jag.
                  As mentioned above, with luck and the grace of god. some "exercise" of the brakes will bring the system back to functional life.
                  I'm hoping I won't have to drop that rear suspension sub frame.
                  CF1634U+O Pimento/Chestnut
                  2nd owner, since 1975
                  Now in Fair Oaks, CA

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Just bumping to erase hacker post.
                    CF1634U+O Pimento/Chestnut
                    2nd owner, since 1975
                    Now in Fair Oaks, CA

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Yeah he's getting around with a few posts.. Needs to be shut out and the I.P. blocked
                      72 Pimento w/overdrive - Lilred
                      67 4A Royal Blue - Lilblue

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I keep notifying Alan, and he responds, but the creeps are staying ahead of his bans. He is a busy guy, no doubt.

                        I sent Alan a message about the hacker posts, just now.
                        Last edited by SapphireBlue72; 07-27-2021, 05:52 PM.
                        Walt
                        CC80954U '72 TR6 original condition/sold 16.500.
                        poolboy rebuilt the Z-S Carbs. Philstr6 rebuilt both rear hubs.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Don't know if any of y'all have noticed, but for the last month or more, there have been probably 10 or so new members with weird names every day. Looks like there were 14 yesterday and 3 so far in the first hour of today. Edit: Now 6 new for today.

                          I would think some sort of verification of new members might be warranted.
                          Last edited by RatRidgeRoadster; 07-28-2021, 02:38 AM.
                          R3
                          Jim Herter,͏͏͏͏͏͏͏͏͏Copperas Cove, TX
                          Original Owner ֍ 1970 TR6 CC 50990 LO

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                          Brakes sticking after lon layup question

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