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Lost comp. on cyl. #4

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  • Robert_6
    replied
    OK, thanks.

    Leave a comment:


  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    I used the all purpose 10-40 for motorcycles, etc. I see on the site black container, 5.99 a bottle.(now) :whistle:

    Leave a comment:


  • Robert_6
    replied
    So I should use an oil additive to help break-in the new tappets? I went to the Yamalube site and there are all different types.
    Thanks

    Leave a comment:


  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    Never hurts. Especially if you were not able to perform the flat tappet/cam, run in procedure(initial startup speed kept above 1000, varying engine speed for 20 minutes). Modern engines do come from the factory with an initial break in service oil in the pan, Ford, Acura, and a few others. Up to you, but I would. Go with an oil that has additives in it for flat tappet engine.(I found Yamalube, for less than 4 bucks a quart, but that was a few years back, and it had all the additives in it).

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  • Robert_6
    replied
    I was thinking of changing it at the 500 mile re-torque and valve clearance adjustment. Should I change it sooner?

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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    Okay, so run in oil should be changed.

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  • Robert_6
    replied
    Hmm, thanks for the tip Phil, but too late for that. I've already driven the car 200 miles. I did put a big gunk of Moly assembly lube between lobes and bottom lifter, between inside of lifter and push rod, and between push rod and rocker. Plus I haven't revved it past 3,500. :blink:
    Thanks!
    Robert

    Leave a comment:


  • Philstr6
    replied
    Robert
    break those new lifters in,run your motor at 2500 rpms, for 20 minutes and varie the rpm as well in the 20 minutes

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  • Robert_6
    replied
    I see you have the car called 'original survivor'...but you also have quite a few modifications which kind of contradicts that classification.
    With that in mind, has the cam, the tappets, the rocker arm ratio or the valve springs been changed from the original components ?
    I ask because given reasonable care since new and based on what I've seen in high mileage engines, I don't believe original tappets would have looked like that.
    PB,
    The engine is stock. Modifications are centered in the suspension, brakes, and diff. only. Albeit, I modified my 6-Pack signature... B)
    Robert

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  • Robert_6
    replied


    Head had the exhaust valves replaced along with the guides. Everything else was fine, including the seats. Also a new set of tappets.
    No definite explanation as to why the valve burnt in the first place. Many variables to determine the one specific.
    Car is running fine. Two more fuel tanks before re-torquing and adjusting valve clearance from suggested 0.012" to the 0.01".

    Thanks for all the input!
    Robert

    Leave a comment:


  • A Brit in Bama
    replied
    Spalling, typically happens to the softer of the two faces that interface, and greatly accelerates once the surface hardening that is (or should be) applied during manufacture wears through. Also, tappets are free to rotate in their bores, some more so than others, hence why the effect can appear across the face.

    One of the best articles I read on the subject was written by Barney Gaylord, aka The MGA Guru. He visited our car-club a couple of years back, as he and his son were driving their MGA around the country.

    MGA Guru - Spalling Article

    Be sure to click the green "Forward" arrow at the bottom of the article - it goes on for several pages

    Leave a comment:


  • Greg_M
    replied
    It makes you wonder what kind of process is going on to take random chunks like that out a lifter. When you visualize a flat part running against a spinning part, a bench grinder comes to mind and we all know what that wear looks like. On some lifters the wear patten looks relatively smooth without the pitting, more closely consistent with the bench grinding analogy.

    Anyone know why some lifers pit and some wear evenly in the same engine?

    Greg

    Leave a comment:


  • poolboy
    replied
    I see you have the car called 'original survivor'...but you also have quite a few modifications which kind of contradicts that classification.
    With that in mind, has the cam, the tappets, the rocker arm ratio or the valve springs been changed from the original components ?
    I ask because given reasonable care since new and based on what I've seen in high mileage engines, I don't believe original tappets would have looked like that.

    Leave a comment:


  • Robert_6
    replied
    I also inspected the tappets. This engine has received what I consider to be great maintenance. It's 73K miles now and Ialways used the ZDDP additive from the Roadster Factory in every oil change. I used Castrol GTX 20/50 with NAPA's Gold oil filter and changed it at the beginning of the driving season and at the end before summer storage. Averaging a total of 2,500 mile per year, I consider this good maintenance. I swiched to Valvoline VR1 20/50 about 3 years ago.
    Unless the original owner,who drove the car for only 47K miles in 32 years didn't know about the ZDDP issue, I would like to know what else can be attributed to the awful condition of the tappets.



    I checked the lobes and only one had a small amount of pitting from what I could see from above.
    I guess that at 73K it is tired enough to give it a nice overhaul before the TRials...
    Cheers,
    Robert

    Leave a comment:


  • Robert_6
    replied
    Head came back from the shop and it looks much better now. :lol:



    I'll be assembling everything back today. Hoping it will be ready for Saturday's show !

    Leave a comment:

Lost comp. on cyl. #4

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