Car stalls out after warming up and will not restart

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  • CrossKeys
    Newbie
    MEMBER
    • Apr 2023
    • 3

    Car stalls out after warming up and will not restart

    Folks, I am a new owner of an early 1974 TR6. Car was in storage, dry garage for 28 years and basically unmolested, she has 28,000 miles and the original Stromberg carbs. Since bringing her back to life, fuel tank was flushed and a new fuel filter added, new plugs, wires, distributor cap, points and condenser installed. Car fires up cold every time with a little choke and runs great for the first 5-10 minutes. Then the idling gets rough/low and will eventually stall out while waiting for a light to change or at a stop sign. The car will not re-start, typically have to wait minimum 30-60 minutes until it will re-start and the process starts over. I have ordered a new ballast coil (set to arrive today) and a carb heat shield based on other articles of "possible causes." Any other suggestions or culprits that I should explore to resolve? Thanks.
  • baws
    TRials Legend
    MEMBER
    • Dec 2010
    • 14492

    #2
    Is there any debis present in the new filter? Have you checked the fuel pump's internal filter?
    CF1634U+O Pimento/Chestnut
    2nd owner, since 1975
    Now in Fair Oaks, CA

    Comment


    • CrossKeys
      CrossKeys commented
      Editing a comment
      I have not checked the fuel filter since the replacement as the engine runs great for the first 5-10 minutes, so I thought there wasn't any fuel supply issue. May be something to check if something gets "disturbed" as the car moves/bounces?
  • poolboy
    More than Legendary
    • Dec 2006
    • 26954

    #3
    It doesn't sound like it's a heat issue if it begins to act up after only 5 or 10 minutes of the engine running.
    How about flooding ? Have you investigated that possibility ?
    Driving a 1973 TR6
    Doing ZS carb repairs
    email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

    Comment


    • CrossKeys
      CrossKeys commented
      Editing a comment
      My buddy TRdoc is leaning toward a carb issue (non heat related as well) but I dont think flooding is the culprit as it appears to struggle to get fuel at the idle. If I can catch it and hit the accelerator, I can keep her running.

    • poolboy
      poolboy commented
      Editing a comment
      Have a spark plug wrench nearby and ready to go so the next time it stalls, you can remove plugs # 1 and 6 and have a look, maybe even take a picture for the rest of us to evaluate
      Last edited by poolboy; 04-20-2023, 04:09 PM.
  • Tripp74
    Karter
    MEMBER
    • Aug 2009
    • 2526

    #4
    Since the car sat for so long, Pop those carbs off and send them to Pool Boy...it will be money well spent ! (see Ken's contact info above)
    Jim / NW Ohio
    "Tillie"... a '74 dressed like a '69 / CF14608U
    Blog: www.trippstr6.blogspot.com

    Comment


    • poolboy
      poolboy commented
      Editing a comment
      Thanks for the referral, Jim.
  • lfmTR4
    TRials Legend
    • Dec 2006
    • 14804

    #5
    Open the gas tank filler cap and see if it continues to run. If that doesn’t help, send the carbs to Ken for a rebuild. They’re probably all varnished up inside.
    Last edited by lfmTR4; 04-20-2023, 06:29 PM.
    72 Pimento w/overdrive - Lilred
    67 4A Royal Blue - Lilblue

    Comment


    • poolboy
      poolboy commented
      Editing a comment
      Tanks, Lou
  • skootch13
    Oil In My Blood
    MEMBER
    • Sep 2015
    • 1589

    #6
    I think the fuel bowl vents to the carbs are covered or blocked. How about removing the air filter assembly and seeing if a gasket or gunk is covering the fuel bowl vent? The vent is at 10 o clock on the face of the carb.

    The bowl can't vent so a vacuum gets on the fuel and therefore it can't get pulled up through the jet. Sitting for 30 minutes allows the vacuum to go away and fuel can go up the jet.

    This happened to another member a few years ago who made his own gaskets and covered the hole.
    1972 Sapphire TR6 #CC84,something

    1973 Harvest Yellow MGB V8

    Comment


    • CrossKeys
      CrossKeys commented
      Editing a comment
      Thanks Skootch, I will take a look and see...
  • tr6harris
    Mitty Graduate
    • Dec 2006
    • 7703

    #7
    See what the new coil does. The coil for the 74 unmolested should be ~1.5 Ohms
    '74 TR6 CF13007U aka "Mr. T"
    Custom Blue (Delft-Like) and New Tan (Formerly Mallard and New Tan)
    Points, Ballast Bypassed, Bosch Blue Coil, Moss Cobalt Wires, Champion RN12YC plugs.
    Peaks and tweaks, but the spirit of Original
    Redlines always.
    My wife is the Driver, I'm just the Mechanic....

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