brake master cylinder for the 4runner calipers

[L.O. Guvna]

I left my original booster and master in place when I converted my 4 corners. At the time, some had fiddled with changing those, but I don't remember any consensus on that. Has there been any further chatter on it? I like the goodparts solution, but seems to me that there could be some parts off the shelf that we could adapt to. I looked at the 4runner master cylinder, and I don't think that would work.

cheers
guvnal

[Elwood]

That's an interesting question, at least to me. IMO, the current TRW/Lucas brake masters are not of great quality. I have had one defective right out of the box, and I replaced one with only about 15000 miles yesterday. It was no longer holding pressure. I read the entire 18 pages of brake discussion in the upgrades forum, but other than Bobby D, no one changed out their brake master to something different. I like the Wilwoods used by RIchard Good, but I don't want the complexity of his replacement. What I would like is a replacement that bolts in place of the currently available part, something approaching the quality of the original Girling.

[baws]

If you can find an original Girling master that isn't totally rusted out, simply rebuild it. As Elwood points out, you can't beat the original part's quality.

[46er]

I seem to recall someone posting new Girling MC's available, maybe at Pegasus?

[L.O. Guvna]

Excellente

Let me expand a little - realizing reading my stuff helps to edit myself - often. What I meant to ask was - would it help to have a larger capacity master cylinder. Which led me to the 4 runner master cylinder. my 1999 tahoe has big brakes, but a very soft brake - you have to get used to how soft that is - as if its leaking. I'd like a more firm pedal. A pedal that doesn't go as deep. Course, I think this was all tossed around in those early conversions.

Thanks all.

guvnal

[Elwood]

If you can find an original Girling master that isn't totally rusted out, simply rebuild it. As Elwood points out, you can't beat the original part's quality.

If you could get original Girling rebuild kits, that would be the way to go. However, I'm guessing that the currently available rebuild kits have the same crappy rubber seals that we get with the TRW/Lucas master cylinders. That's my theory anyway.

[Elwood]

I seem to recall someone posting new Girling MC's available, maybe at Pegasus?

I just spent some time on the Pegasus site. They look to have a direct replacement for the TR6 clutch master but I don't see any direct replacement for the brakes.

[baws]

If you could get original Girling rebuild kits, that would be the way to go. However, I'm guessing that the currently available rebuild kits have the same crappy rubber seals that we get with the TRW/Lucas master cylinders. That's my theory anyway.

Oh crap!

[baws]

Better check my stash on hydraulic kits.

[JochemsTR]

You can use the Brake Master from Saab 900. They should be available in US. The reservoir has a nice small cap.
Jochem

[A Brit in Bama]

Chris -

The Good Parts dual MC is nice but pricey, and not for everyone, as it does not have a servo/booster. So pedal pressure is a little more than for the stock system.

But it did achieve my objective, which was for a very firm pedal with little travel in it. No matter what I did with the stock MC/Servo (while plenty powerful), I could not get that slightly-spongy feeling out of the pedal. Suppose I could have gone back to DOT-3 fluid which is less compressible than DOT-5 silicone fluid, which would help.

Other advantages

• it cannot ever leak brake fluid into the booster
• You can adjust balance between front and rears, so you can avoid the dangerous rear rear-lock-spin situation
• uses new, high-quality and easily obtainable seals everywhere.
• adjustable, so that you can trade pedal travel for pedal pressure.

As an alternative, Bobby D replaced the stock MC for a Wilwood unit, http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/wilwo...r_cylinder.htm This is likely a much cheaper solution than the Good Parts Dual MC.

[Elwood]

Chris -

The Good Parts dual MC is nice but pricey, and not for everyone, as it does not have a servo/booster. So pedal pressure is a little more than for the stock system.

But it did achieve my objective, which was for a very firm pedal with little travel in it. No matter what I did with the stock MC/Servo (while plenty powerful), I could not get that slightly-spongy feeling out of the pedal. Suppose I could have gone back to DOT-3 fluid which is less compressible than DOT-5 silicone fluid, which would help.

Other advantages

• it cannot ever leak brake fluid into the booster
• You can adjust balance between front and rears, so you can avoid the dangerous rear rear-lock-spin situation
• uses new, high-quality and easily obtainable seals everywhere.
• adjustable, so that you can trade pedal travel for pedal pressure.

As an alternative, Bobby D replaced the stock MC for a Wilwood unit, http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/wilwo...r_cylinder.htm This is likely a much cheaper solution than the Good Parts Dual MC.

Keith, you've accomplished what I am after. I may have to bite the bullet. THANKS,

[TRick6]

I may stop mucking about and have to bite that same bullet.

[baws]

Speaking of brake master cylinders, with regard to the original Girlings, what is the significance of that plastic band I see on so many of them? I don't remember there being one on my MC?

[TRick6]

I am going with the Goodparts Dual Master Cylinder Kit. Couple of reasons.
1. It will address my main complaint - the long brake pedal travel.
2. It will manage any other upgrades I can throw at it, i.e., front disc upgrades and rear disc conversion.
3. Simple to install and maintain.