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Trailing arm re-tap options

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  • Trailing arm re-tap options

    Once again proving nothing is straight-forward....

    Plan was to clean up the TAs and have a local machine shop tap to 3/8 unc and install a step stud to keep the 5/16 on the hub attachment....BUT

    Removing the corroded/stuck studs, seems most were helicoiled at some point in the past (can't be recent given the state of them). Helicoils are maintaining the existing 5/16 unf studs.

    What are my options now? Am I right in thinking the hole for the helicoil is already larger than the hole would be to tap to 3/8?

    Am I tapping to a 3/8 helicoil? Dilling/tapping to a keensert?

  • #2
    removed three helicoils when installing keenserts in all TA holes.... see picture....two were UNF and one was UNC

    In the second picture, the hole at 8 o'clock before keensert was inserted had the UNC helicoil.... nice clean threads waiting for the keensert.
    Attached Files
    Bruce
    1974 base TR6 Emerald Green "Emmy"
    (with J-O/D added)

    Comment


    • #3
      Hi Bruce - looks like a little bit of everything there! Did you just drill out the helicoils?...and did you use the Patton jig? Part of me thinks I should have left it alone but there was no sign they'd been repaired. At this point I think most were helicoiled and I think I'm probably keenserting them now.

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      • #4
        IIRC I replaced the helicoils in my TAs using Keenserts equivalents from McMaster (#92070A250). These were steel locking inserts, 7/16” UNC on the outside (so wide enough to get clean metal for the new tapping), 5/16” UNF on the inside, so using standard studs. Locking so the inserts won’t back out - not cheap (~$2.50 ea) but way better than helicoils IMO
        Dave C
        '72 Sapphire #CC82360UO
        Chapel Hill NC

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by cammacmillan View Post
          Hi Bruce - looks like a little bit of everything there! Did you just drill out the helicoils?...and did you use the Patton jig? Part of me thinks I should have left it alone but there was no sign they'd been repaired. At this point I think most were helicoiled and I think I'm probably keenserting them now.
          used Patton jig. followed his directions to the "T" Ordered his recommended supplies from McMaster.

          If you go this route, put all studs back in and make sure jig fits, rotating the jig around to next stud to ensure the three small holes all locate as in picture

          To pull a helicoil out, I used a sharp tip to pry it from side of hole so i could grab with a needle nose plier.... than just twist and pull and you will end up with a long stretched helicoil.
          Remember you need three studs in place to fit the the jig
          Attached Files
          Last edited by Atl TR6; 04-04-2022, 09:02 AM.
          Bruce
          1974 base TR6 Emerald Green "Emmy"
          (with J-O/D added)

          Comment


          • #6
            Couple of years ago, when I installed Good Parts rear hubs, I thought I'd take the opportunity to use Keenserts. I used Rick Patton's jig for the drilling process (which Litespud kindly lent me, as I recall).

            When drilling the existing holes, I found that three holes in one TA already had Helicoils in them - I had no idea the were there previously. They just came out with the rest of the swarf when drilling the bigger holes with the X-drill supplied in the Patton kit.

            Note I am not recommending this as an approach for removal of the Helicoils - I can't say for certain that you'd get as lucky as I did in getting them out so easily.
            Keith, Huntsville AL, 1971 TR6
            10.0:1 CR gasflowed head | Weber DCOEs | CP "150hp" Cam | Good Parts Ram-Air induction | Distibutor by Advanced | Lightened flywheel | Phoenix SS Exhaust System | HVDA 5-Speed | Good Parts R200B Diff and CV axles | Good Parts suspension and anti-roll bars | Willwood Calipers and Vented Rotors | Good Parts Dual Brake Master Cylinder | Konig Rewinds | Boyd 15 gal tank | Miata Seats and Mr Mikes covers | Carl Visser dash | Mohair hood | Gas-strut bonnet and boot lift kits

            Comment


            • #7
              When I bought my Rat-co steering wheel I think I saw that they were developing replacement T/A's. No idea of the cost or availability.
              1976 TR6 originally white now Porsche Voodoo Blue
              Frame off resto started May 2015
              Tshirts and TA boxes replaced
              Diff braced and reinforced
              Engine and head rebuilt
              Header and Intake ported
              SS exhaust
              Floors repaired, new metal at rear bumper mounting points
              New Rockers
              AAW wiring - GM alternator
              Complete suspension and brake rebuild, poly bushings

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Anthony View Post
                When I bought my Rat-co steering wheel I think I saw that they were developing replacement T/A's. No idea of the cost or availability.
                Yep...been lusting over a pair for a while... But at $600 per side, I think I can live with the originals...

                https://www.rat-co.com/tr-4a-5-250-6...ng-arm-project

                Click image for larger version

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                Keith, Huntsville AL, 1971 TR6
                10.0:1 CR gasflowed head | Weber DCOEs | CP "150hp" Cam | Good Parts Ram-Air induction | Distibutor by Advanced | Lightened flywheel | Phoenix SS Exhaust System | HVDA 5-Speed | Good Parts R200B Diff and CV axles | Good Parts suspension and anti-roll bars | Willwood Calipers and Vented Rotors | Good Parts Dual Brake Master Cylinder | Konig Rewinds | Boyd 15 gal tank | Miata Seats and Mr Mikes covers | Carl Visser dash | Mohair hood | Gas-strut bonnet and boot lift kits

                Comment


                • #9
                  Ratco productions; whats not to love. Any news as to the weight of the new steel vs. the old aluminum trailing arms?
                  Best Therapy
                  http://www.britishv8.org/Triumph/AlbertGary.htm
                  Zoom Zoom

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I’m hoping someday Ratco makes front tubular a arms with rod ends for adjustment.
                    SR
                    73 TR6. HT/AC/OD
                    86 930
                    91 535i

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by UberXY View Post
                      I’m hoping someday Ratco makes front tubular a arms with rod ends for adjustment.
                      A few years back he was considering camber adjustable tubular TAs with inboard disk brakes....
                      1975 Mimosa with a few upgrades/mods:
                      Patton TBI
                      HVDA Toyota 5 speed
                      Goodparts Nissan Diff
                      Goodparts CVJs
                      AAW Wire Harness
                      Miata Seats
                      Boyd Welding Custom 15 gallon aluminum gas tank

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by UberXY View Post
                        I’m hoping someday Ratco makes front tubular a arms with rod ends for adjustment.
                        Bit like these? A forum member (can't remember his handle right now) made these. I thought they were intriguing, so kept a pic. I believe I discussed this concept with a manufacturer (possibly Richard Good) a few years ago, but whoever it was didn't think it would be economical.

                        (cammacmillan - apologies for the hijacking of your thread!)


                        Click image for larger version

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                        Keith, Huntsville AL, 1971 TR6
                        10.0:1 CR gasflowed head | Weber DCOEs | CP "150hp" Cam | Good Parts Ram-Air induction | Distibutor by Advanced | Lightened flywheel | Phoenix SS Exhaust System | HVDA 5-Speed | Good Parts R200B Diff and CV axles | Good Parts suspension and anti-roll bars | Willwood Calipers and Vented Rotors | Good Parts Dual Brake Master Cylinder | Konig Rewinds | Boyd 15 gal tank | Miata Seats and Mr Mikes covers | Carl Visser dash | Mohair hood | Gas-strut bonnet and boot lift kits

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          A Brit in Bama - hijack away!! I've had my head buried in finishing up the projects for this round and getting the wheels back on. I picked up Rick Patton's jig and felt like an allstar drilling and tapping the TAs - turned out great though...keenserted up and back on the car with some Philtr6 rebuilt hubs now.
                          Click image for larger version

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