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1976 TR6 clutch master/slave replace or?

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  • #16
    Well, I decided to go for a new master cylinder as a starting point for this small project. I have ordered a TRW version from Moss because I understand TRW took over from Girling. I would have liked to get the in situ cylinder redone but given shipping costs it was going to be a lot more expensive. I was surprised that the entry port in the slave cylinder is identical to the bleed nipple port. It would be possible to reverse them. My setup is almost identical to the one shown in the picture provided by poolboy except it is rustier. I also note the presence of a red plastic line that runs between the slave and the metal line emanating from the master.

    I did have another go around before deciding to go for the new master. I teflon taped the bleed nipple, loosened it and there was still no fluid showing in the clear plastic tube when I pumped the pedal. I tried letting it bleed on its own but could not get a result that made any sense to me. Your inputs have all been very helpful. Much appreciated. I will wait for the new master to arrive and when installed will get back to you. I know it could be the slave and that would be my next turn in this saga.

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    • #17
      That red line has been known to deteriorate with age, I would replace when you do the master replacement.

      In case you have not seen it, the Buckeye Triumph site has a good piece on overhauling the clutch system. Use their menu and select Tech Articles.

      https://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/

      Last edited by 46er; 09-25-2021, 11:35 AM.
      Ralph
      TR250 "Eileen"
      MGB "Merck"
      VW GTI

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      • #18
        i replaced mine completely with a new one and converted over to silicone based fluid. the old one sat a bit, then leaked as some work was being done and the inside was coated with orange rust like sludge

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        • #19
          Musk,
          I cheated when I converted to "silly-cone" brake fluid (clutch and brakes). Google "garden sprayer brake bleeder." You should see hits for using a quart (or so) garden sprayer, some vinyl clear line, a few brass do-hickies, a flat plate (steel or aluminum), and some cork gasket material to make a pressure bleeder. Use a spare master cylinder cover for the brakes, and the plate for the clutch.

          Carefully crafting said device makes bleeding brakes a one person job, and especially expediant for bleeding air out of dry, air-filled lines. I had the brakes and clutch bled in short order. My wife congratulated me and kissed me mucho times since she clearly remembers the time the 944 gave us both fits while bleeding it's brakes...and that particular time was well over 20 years ago!

          I can provide a picture of mine if you like.

          Jim in NE MS

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          • frostr6
            frostr6 commented
            Editing a comment
            I 'cheated' the last time I bled the brakes and changed all the bleeder valves out for speed bleeders, and the clutch too. Only about $35 to do the whole car, and I can bleed everything solo now.

        • #20
          Starting this project today replacing from the MC downstream, hoping to fix my balky clutch. Slave is upside down and the MC fluid has seen better days. Will see if the quickjack gets the car up high enough.
          Ralph
          TR250 "Eileen"
          MGB "Merck"
          VW GTI

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          • #21
            If the bores aren't pitted beyond fine sandpaper, I rebuild with a quality kit.
            72 Pimento w/overdrive - Lilred
            67 4A Royal Blue - Lilblue

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            • #22
              Okay. I have now ordered a new slave cylinder from Moss. It was leaking fluid though the rubber cup that surrounds the acuator arm and changing the master cylinder made little or no difference. Moss is only charging fourteen dollars US and by the time it gets here the cost is not large.

              I am trying to get my head around to how the fluid reacts when the pedal is pushed and when the pedal is allowed to come back to rest.

              So, with the bleed valve in open position and a tube running from it to the master cylinder reservoir and I push the pedal down, according to my theory, fluid will be pushed from the master cylinder, through the connecting tubes, into the slave cylinder and out through the bleed valve. Right so far?

              I will connect plastic tubing between the slave bleed valve and the master cylinder reservoir so I expect to see some brake fluid in the clear plastic tubing at this point Right?

              What happens when I lift my foot off the pedal? Will the fluid I pushed down into the slave cylinder be sucked back into the slave cylinder? Will the fluid in the master reservoir be sucked into the clear plastic tubing?

              Do I need to have somebody pushing the pedal while I open the bleed valve on the down stroke of the pedal and close it on the up stroke?

              Or if I keep pushing and releasing the pedal will the fluid gradually fill the slave and the clear plastic tubing until there are no air bubbles left.

              Thereby making me a happy camper



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              • #23
                Ever consider just gravity bleeding the clutch slave cylinder ?
                Driving a 1973 TR6
                Doing ZS carb repairs
                email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

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                • #24
                  Doing this stuff now, +1 for the gravity bleed. Slave done, MC removed. Much easier since my sons brought me a creeper; used to slide under on a plastic garbage bag
                  Ralph
                  TR250 "Eileen"
                  MGB "Merck"
                  VW GTI

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                  • #25
                    Originally posted by poolboy View Post
                    Ever consider just gravity bleeding the clutch slave cylinder ?
                    So to gravity feed I simply open the bleed valve, run a plastic tube from the bleed valve down into a jar containing brake fluid, and watch the reservoir to ensure it does not run out? Is that all there is to the procedure? How long would it generally take? I assume you would allow it to run until no bubbles are evident in the plastic tube. Do I have that right?

                    I have the slave unbuckled except for the plastic line. Just waiting for the new slave to arrive.

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                    • #26
                      Originally posted by 46er View Post
                      Doing this stuff now, +1 for the gravity bleed. Slave done, MC removed. Much easier since my sons brought me a creeper; used to slide under on a plastic garbage bag
                      Keep me in the loop Ralph. Did you change out the red plastic line? Could you expand a little on the gravity feed method of bleeding the clutch, please?

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                      • #27
                        Originally posted by muskox3437 View Post

                        Keep me in the loop Ralph. Did you change out the red plastic line? Could you expand a little on the gravity feed method of bleeding the clutch, please?
                        I will be replacing it after the MC is in. I like to keep the line loose until the MC is fitted, gives a little wiggle room. Gravity bleed is very simple, attach your drain hose to the slave bleed nipple, put the other end in a suitable container, open the bleed screw 1/4-1/2 turn, remove the MC cap and keep an eye on the fluid level, add as needed. Once the bubbles stop coming from the slave, tighten the bleed screw, fill the MC and button it all up. It does not take long. I used it after emptying the MC with a turkey baster before I began working. I use DOT 5 for the brakes and clutch.
                        Ralph
                        TR250 "Eileen"
                        MGB "Merck"
                        VW GTI

                        Comment


                        • #28
                          Originally posted by 46er View Post

                          I will be replacing it after the MC is in. I like to keep the line loose until the MC is fitted, gives a little wiggle room. Gravity bleed is very simple, attach your drain hose to the slave bleed nipple, put the other end in a suitable container, open the bleed screw 1/4-1/2 turn, remove the MC cap and keep an eye on the fluid level, add as needed. Once the bubbles stop coming from the slave, tighten the bleed screw, fill the MC and button it all up. It does not take long. I used it after emptying the MC with a turkey baster before I began working. I use DOT 5 for the brakes and clutch.
                          Thank you! I will give it a try when I get the new slave here. I have been using dot 3 fluid, always a little worried about changing from the 'official' recommendation. I should have ordered in a red line but maybe I will stick with what I have for the time being. If I still cannot get the clutch arm to move I will change the red line as well. Won't be much else to change at that point

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                          • #29
                            I've done quite a bit of looking around for info on clutch problems and replacing the clutch hydraulics was the easiest and least expensive first try. I knew the slave was upside down, but since I removed all the fluid, it was the time to replace it all. If the issue is what I have read about I have the winter to work on it. An example of info out there from the Buckeye site;

                            https://static1.squarespace.com/stat...ickyClutch.pdf

                            Ralph
                            TR250 "Eileen"
                            MGB "Merck"
                            VW GTI

                            Comment


                            • #30
                              The Bentley is available online for free. Download it.

                              https://tecb.eu/onewebmedia/TR6_repair_manual.pdf

                              i have a paper version but whne i work hen I work on the car and need to consult the manual I just print the applicable pages so as not to get the manual oily or dirty.

                              72 Pimento w/overdrive - Lilred
                              67 4A Royal Blue - Lilblue

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                              1976 TR6 clutch master/slave replace or?

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