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1976 TR6 clutch master/slave replace or?

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  • 1976 TR6 clutch master/slave replace or?

    I am fairly certain the clutch master cylinder on this TR6 has failed. I opened the bleed spigot on the slave cylinder and ran a clear plastic line from the slave to the open master reservoir and then pumped the clutch pedal. After a number of tries nothing moved out of the slave and into the plastic line. This is telling me the master cylinder is failing. Am I correct in this conclusion?

    I am considering a replacement or a reline at Apple Hydraulics in New York. I might be a little premature but if I am going to do a thorough job I thought replacement or a reline might be better than attempting to rebuild the master cylinder. Any thoughts?

  • #2
    I rebuilt my clutch master and slave a couple times in the past but the rebuild never seemed to last very long. Eventually I just purchased new and haven't had a problem since. If I recall the cost is pretty minimal.

    I also seem to recall that bleeding the clutch hydraulics is a fiddly task but its been a few years so I can't recall what the issue was.
    73 TR6
    Dundee, IL
    My TR6

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    • #3
      Originally posted by muskox3437 View Post
      I am fairly certain the clutch master cylinder on this TR6 has failed. I opened the bleed spigot on the slave cylinder and ran a clear plastic line from the slave to the open master reservoir and then pumped the clutch pedal. After a number of tries nothing moved out of the slave and into the plastic line. This is telling me the master cylinder is failing. Am I correct in this conclusion?

      I am considering a replacement or a reline at Apple Hydraulics in New York. I might be a little premature but if I am going to do a thorough job I thought replacement or a reline might be better than attempting to rebuild the master cylinder. Any thoughts?
      One thing to consider when opening the bleed valve is to ensure that no air is going back into the slave cylinder thru the bleed valve threads. Try wrapping these threads with teflon tape a couple of turns and try again.

      Dick

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      • #4
        Originally posted by dicta View Post

        One thing to consider when opening the bleed valve is to ensure that no air is going back into the slave cylinder thru the bleed valve threads. Try wrapping these threads with teflon tape a couple of turns and try again.

        Dick
        That is an interesting point. I bought some clear plastic tubing for the job and I sized it by trying out a bleed valve nipple from an extra slave cylinder that came with the car when I bought it. But, once under the car with all the pleasures that that brings I could not force the tubing onto the in situ nipple. I decided to remove it and sure enough the nipple is larger in diameter. Oh those those tricky engineers So I switched the bleed valves. Maybe the replacement bleed valve is leaking air. I will now remove the nipple and replace it with its original and I will follow your advice and wrap the threads in teflon tape to prevent leakage. This will force me to buy some more plastic tubing but, hey, if I can save on buying another master cylinder, it will be money well spent. And I can become the plastic tubing source guy in the neighbourhood

        Comment


        • #5
          If you have original Girling master cylinders and the bores are clean/unpitted, I would advise rebuilding them with new seals. Compared with the brake system, the clutch hydraulics are a breeze to bleed.
          It helps to have bleed nipple in the upper position when orienting the slave cylinder.
          CF1634U+O Pimento/Chestnut
          2nd owner, since 1975
          Now in Fair Oaks, CA

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          • #6
            You could always gravity bleed it, just keep an eye on the master fluid level. It is a one person job, just sitting around and watching till the bubbles end...
            Ralph
            TR250 "Eileen"
            MGB "Merck"
            VW GTI

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            • #7
              Originally posted by 46er View Post
              You could always gravity bleed it, just keep an eye on the master fluid level. It is a one person job, just sitting around and watching till the bubbles end...
              Exactly!
              CF1634U+O Pimento/Chestnut
              2nd owner, since 1975
              Now in Fair Oaks, CA

              Comment


              • #8
                I have an Apply Hydraulics spare master. It’s fine but be aware that these take a special rebuild kit as they are slightly differently sized due to their sleeving. You might get an extra rebuild kit if you go that route.
                1974 TR-6 Logic Overdrive

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by phil73 View Post
                  I rebuilt my clutch master and slave a couple times in the past but the rebuild never seemed to last very long. Eventually I just purchased new and haven't had a problem since. If I recall the cost is pretty minimal.

                  I also seem to recall that bleeding the clutch hydraulics is a fiddly task but its been a few years so I can't recall what the issue was.
                  I’ve had fairly good luck rebuilding my clutch masters. Brakes not so much. At the cost of new, I’ve been buying new brake masters. That said, with the quality of replacement parts these days, I try to rebuild rather than replace wherever possible.

                  So much rust, so little time

                  64 TR4 Overdrive Surrey
                  68 TR250 Soon to have Overdrive & Surrey
                  69 TR6 Overdrive Early with fender beads
                  71 TR6 Hardtop Soon to have OD
                  81 TR8 Injected Automatic...the LAST Automatic

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Mike K View Post
                    I have an Apply Hydraulics spare master. It’s fine but be aware that these take a special rebuild kit as they are slightly differently sized due to their sleeving. You might get an extra rebuild kit if you go that route.
                    Are they ?
                    I was under the impression the cylinders were bored out and a sleeve of the original ID inserted.
                    Driving a 1973 TR6
                    Doing ZS carb repairs
                    email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by poolboy View Post
                      Are they ?
                      I was under the impression the cylinders were bored out and a sleeve of the original ID inserted.
                      That’s my experience Ken from a few years back. The master even had a sticker on it indicating this. YMMV
                      1974 TR-6 Logic Overdrive

                      Comment


                      • poolboy
                        poolboy commented
                        Editing a comment
                        That's interesting, Mike...I have a sleeved one, looks like brass or bronze but I didn't get it direct from the 'sleever'.It was on the car when I bought it.

                    • #12
                      Think I will try the gravity system---makes me think of the Joan Baez song about making moonshine. "Just lie there by the Juniper. Watch them jugs a-filling in the pale moonlight." Not quite the same but you get the drift. Not quite sure what Baws means by orienting the bleed nipple to the upper position on the slave cylinder. Are you saying the bleed nipple, when mounted to the car, should be at the top of the slave cylinder instead of at the bottom where it is currently located? Probably not. But I had to ask.

                      Comment


                      • #13
                        The air (if any) in the slave cylinder will rise to the top...that's where you'd want the bleed nipple. Also make sure the slave cylinder/bracket and rod are mounted
                        like this
                        Click image for larger version

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                        Driving a 1973 TR6
                        Doing ZS carb repairs
                        email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

                        Comment


                        • #14
                          Originally posted by muskox3437 View Post
                          Not quite sure what Baws means by orienting the bleed nipple to the upper position on the slave cylinder. Are you saying the bleed nipple, when mounted to the car, should be at the top of the slave cylinder instead of at the bottom where it is currently located? Probably not. But I had to ask.
                          Yes, that is what folks advise.And also check the way it's mounted vis a vis the fore and aft position as shown in PB's pic above.
                          The slave cylinder will actually function if mounted forward of the engine back plate...... for a whlie, but eventually will spit out the control rod. Ask me how I know.
                          CF1634U+O Pimento/Chestnut
                          2nd owner, since 1975
                          Now in Fair Oaks, CA

                          Comment


                          • #15
                            Originally posted by muskox3437 View Post
                            Not quite sure what Baws means by orienting the bleed nipple to the upper position on the slave cylinder. Are you saying the bleed nipple, when mounted to the car, should be at the top of the slave cylinder instead of at the bottom where it is currently located? Probably not. But I had to ask.
                            BAWS is correct, this is shown in the Bentley service manual on pages 263 and 267. If you do not have the manual you could try this site, but use due caution, after all, it is the internet

                            A vid; https://youtu.be/A-AjeyDuowo
                            Ralph
                            TR250 "Eileen"
                            MGB "Merck"
                            VW GTI

                            Comment

                            1976 TR6 clutch master/slave replace or?

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