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  • problem getting car into gear

    My 1969 TR6 has run very well until today. Although the clutch pressure and travel seems normal I cannot get it into any forward gear and reverse will just grind. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

  • #2
    As a follow up, I can get the car into gear when the engine is shut off. I tried again with the engine running and could not get it into any gear.

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    • #3
      If you are getting the slave pushrod travel, check the thrust washer tolerance. Classic symptom of worm thrust washers or sheared clutch shaft pin.
      72 Pimento w/overdrive - Lilred
      67 4A Royal Blue - Lilblue

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      • #4
        Originally posted by BRG69 View Post
        As a follow up, I can get the car into gear when the engine is shut off. I tried again with the engine running and could not get it into any gear.
        Something let go on the clutch. If the slave lever doesn’t move at least 1/2” with the pedal it’s the hydraulics. If it does, more likely a broken fork pin.
        Bill Connell
        1969 TR6 CC28790
        TR6 project log
        St. Paul MN

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        • #5
          thanks guys, will check on your suggestions

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          • #6
            You might be right but it doesn’t take long to check the TWs and it could save you a tranny pull.
            72 Pimento w/overdrive - Lilred
            67 4A Royal Blue - Lilblue

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            • #7
              checked slave lever(push rod?) it moved over 1/2 inch fork pin is intact. How difficult is it to check thrust washer? I'm no mechanic but i can bust knuckles with best of them.

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              • #8
                Go here and read up.

                https://www.britishcarweek.org/tr6_4.html

                The simple check is to push the crank aft with a lever on the pulley against the cross tube. Then watch the pulley carefully or put your hand between it and the cross tube and have someone push the clutch to bottom, if you can see or feel ANY forward movement, you are out of spec. Unless that is you can tell 0.008 - 0.012”.
                72 Pimento w/overdrive - Lilred
                67 4A Royal Blue - Lilblue

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by lfmTR4 View Post
                  Go here and read up.

                  https://www.britishcarweek.org/tr6_4.html

                  The simple check is to push the crank aft with a lever on the pulley against the cross tube. Then watch the pulley carefully or put your hand between it and the cross tube and have someone push the clutch to bottom, if you can see or feel ANY forward movement, you are out of spec. Unless that is you can tell 0.008 - 0.012”.
                  You're close enough about the spec for thrust washer movement, but it takes a lot more movement than this to cause a problem in clutch disengagement. Other than this relatively simple check, we on't want to lead BRG into more complications than he needs!

                  Dick

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                  • #10
                    That's true Dick but once the thin plating is gone, it doesn't take long for them to gall and extrude. Then you have plenty of room for the clutch not to engage.

                    These were the originals in the pan when I bought my car.

                    Click image for larger version

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                    72 Pimento w/overdrive - Lilred
                    67 4A Royal Blue - Lilblue

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                    • #11
                      Thanks again guys, this may or may not be an issue but the fluid level in the master cylinder was down 5/8 of an inch. It was suggested I bleed the system with Dot 3 fluid.

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                      • 46er
                        46er commented
                        Editing a comment
                        Use the same spec fluid that is in there now unless you plan on flushing the system.

                    • #12
                      Does a thrust washer give any warning signs prior to failure? Hard to engage gears, grinding etc.? My car was shifting easily prior to this problem.

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                      • #13
                        Not really, the engine can run just fine with the thrust washer out of spec, it just increases wear on internal parts. Even if it drops out, the main symptom may be the clutch engaging differently. This is part of why it's important to check the fore/aft movement of the crank at regular service intervals.
                        Bill Connell
                        1969 TR6 CC28790
                        TR6 project log
                        St. Paul MN

                        Comment


                        • #14
                          If your thrust washers have gone missing or taken a bath, when you push the pedal, your RPMs will drop so pay close attention. If not, there are other reasons such as broken fork pin, hydraulics, clevis pins or ovalled holes in clutch pedal or push rod. Possibly the cross shaft bushes in the bell housing
                          So much rust, so little time

                          64 TR4 Overdrive Surrey
                          68 TR250 Soon to have Overdrive & Surrey
                          69 TR6 Overdrive Early with fender beads
                          71 TR6 Hardtop Soon to have OD
                          81 TR8 Injected Automatic...the LAST Automatic

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                          • #15
                            Originally posted by BRG69 View Post
                            Does a thrust washer give any warning signs prior to failure? Hard to engage gears, grinding etc.? My car was shifting easily prior to this problem.
                            Yeah, that’s why I asked you to check the clearance. If they have been extruded, the crank will move forward the thickness of the TW and offset the 5/8” slave rod movement. When I bought my car, it was hard to get into first and reverse with the engine running, no problem with the engine off.
                            72 Pimento w/overdrive - Lilred
                            67 4A Royal Blue - Lilblue

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