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1974 Starter Relay or Seat Belt Switch / Wiring??

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  • 1974 Starter Relay or Seat Belt Switch / Wiring??

    I was at a car show on Saturday and all was well, until time to leave. I closed up the bonnet, and turned the ignition and nothing! Of course, first thing I thought was that I must have left the lights or radio on. So a nice fellow car show lady offered me a jump start and nothing doing. Starter was not doing its thing. Just dead silence. So then we did a rolling start to let out the clutch and it started right up. Once home, I let it cool down and tried to start it and starter engaged and no issues. Tried a few more times on Sunday and starts fine. I never have had this issue before after owning this 1974 TR6 for 16 years. The PO had disabled the seat belt warning lights and probably wired together the seatbelt switches. I know he disconnected the switch under the seat that detects if your buns are there or not. So my hypothesis is that either 1) the Starter Relay might have gone bad to disengage the current going to the Starter or some how the silly Seat Belt switch prevented me from turning over the Starter. I saw a previous post here in this forum where PoolBoy suggests the root problem is this Seat Belt Wiring that is unique to 1974's. If I just put a jumper wire to connect the 2 tabs on the Starter Relay that use a Red/White wire and the other a Red / Orange Wire, will that permanently resolve this issue. I really don't want to get caught again with no Starter even though the Starter works fine. (BTW, it is a Gear Reduction Starter, new in 2012)

  • #2
    The big difference I see from looking at the schematic is that the W/R on the seatbelt warning goes to the Ignition switch whereas the W/R on the relay goes to the starter solenoid.
    It should not be all that difficult to have a look and see if the seatbelt w/r and w/o wires are spliced and if not then do so...
    If they have been and you get stuck again and want to bypass the relay, that's pretty easy too...jump the W/R on the relay from the Brown wire.
    If it still doesn't start, you may have a defective solenoid on the starter.
    Driving a 1973 TR6
    Doing ZS carb repairs
    email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

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    • #3
      Originally posted by normantr6 View Post
      If I just put a jumper wire to connect the 2 tabs on the Starter Relay that use a Red/White wire and the other a Red / Orange Wire, will that permanently resolve this issue.
      That would do nothing to resolve the problem, If this is the notorious seatbelt module problem, the white/orange coming back from the seatbelt module is dead and won't provide the current to energize the relay.

      Click image for larger version

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      R3
      Jim Herter,͏͏͏͏͏͏͏͏͏Copperas Cove, TX
      Original Owner ֍ 1970 TR6 CC 50990 LO

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      • #4
        So, if the seat belt module is bypassed, if you end up having a failed starter relay instead, would Pooboys fix to jumper the w/r and brown get you going again. The reason I ask is my relay is original to the car and bound to fail in the future. I,m thinking when on a road trip etc. My Bentley schematic doesnt show the relay internals and wiring isnt my best suit.

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        • #5
          Jim will have to tell you if that method simultaneously gets power to both the starter solenoid and the coil...or if there are other ways of bypassing the relay.
          I don't know what year your car is and not all years even had a starter relay but you'll find a much better wiring schematic pdf here...It's the one most of us use.
          Just scroll down to the pdf
          http://www.advanceautowire.com/schematics.htm
          Last edited by poolboy; 06-07-2021, 04:20 PM.
          Driving a 1973 TR6
          Doing ZS carb repairs
          email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

          Comment


          • #6
            Guys, Thanks so much. Your advice is so helpful!! I have been using the schematic that Poolboy referenced, but I guess I am not that good at reading it precisely. So Wiring is not my strong suit! RatRidge Roadster, thanks for the great diagram. I did check the Seat Belt module plug again and those two wires are definitely not spliced or joined together. I will make that splice immediately. My Starter Relay is original to the car as is all the wiring. So hopefully with these two wires connected I will now have a 1975 TR6, one year newer!

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            • #7
              Originally posted by tr6ed View Post
              if you end up having a failed starter relay instead, would Pooboys fix to jumper the w/r and brown get you going again?
              It would get the starter motor to turn over, but it would not provide the temporary boosted battery voltage to the coil in case you are still using the ballasted coil. The car may or may not start without the boosted coil voltage, but you could jump or touch the brown, white/red, and white/yellow wires together to get it started.

              If you don't mind a Bosch style relay for a spare, I found this hard to find relay a month or two ago:

              You might need an adapter something like these if you have two brown wires to go on terminal 30:



              R3
              Jim Herter,͏͏͏͏͏͏͏͏͏Copperas Cove, TX
              Original Owner ֍ 1970 TR6 CC 50990 LO

              Comment


              • tr6ed
                tr6ed commented
                Editing a comment
                Thanks RRR, thats just what i needed. great diagram.

            • #8
              I had a similar issue last month with my '73, was ready to remove the starter of ignition switch. Problem turned out to be just a bad ground at the negative battery cable to body connection.
              Easy to check and clean before further wiring surgury.
              CF1634U+O Pimento/Chestnut
              2nd owner, since 1975
              Now in Fair Oaks, CA

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