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original fuel pump restoration

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  • original fuel pump restoration

    Here are 2 pics from my first effort at cleaning up my original pump, which has sat on my bench for at least 7 years. In parts, in a coffee can, Starting with the easiest piece - the top cover. On a drill with 1/4 bolt, one inch, nut on the end to tighten it down, and in my recipe that I used for the carbs - 220, 400, 800, 2000, rub compound, then polish compound. What I have in this version is 220, 400, 800, 2000 and some mequires swirl remover. That rub/polish segment helps for the really nice finish. On this drill, 2nd speed. I think with this finish, it will resist rust, but we will see. I may have to scrap this and paint it. or coat it. But as I work down, I won't have this lathe to work with.

    Click image for larger version

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    Anticipating the next segment - my 2 check valves are notched in - as if from the factory. How do you remove and replace?

    cheers

  • #2
    Very Nice!!!
    '74 TR6 CF13007U aka "Mr. T"
    Custom Blue (Delft-Like) and New Tan (Formerly Mallard and New Tan)
    Points, Ballast Bypassed, Bosch Blue Coil, Moss Cobalt Wires, Champion RN12YC plugs.
    Peaks and tweaks, but the spirit of Original
    Redlines always.
    My wife is the Driver, I'm just the Mechanic....

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    • #3
      You could spray it with a clear coat tp preserve the shine.
      Walt
      CC80954U '72 TR6 original condition/sold 16.500.
      poolboy rebuilt the Z-S Carbs. Philstr6 rebuilt both rear hubs.

      Comment


      • #4
        [QUOTE=

        Anticipating the next segment - my 2 check valves are notched in - as if from the factory. How do you remove and replace?

        cheers[/QUOTE]

        Nice work!

        regarding the check valves; I had the same question years ago when I rebuilt mine. I could not budge them when (gently) trying to pry them out with a pick. The only way I could think of was (gently) grinding the peen away with a dremel but I elected not to and just left them. Using quality fuel with a filter before the pump has resulted in no problems since.
        YMMV...
        regards, C74

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        • #5
          Originally posted by SapphireBlue72 View Post
          You could spray it with a clear coat to preserve the shine.
          Yeah, you better do something...that shiny bare metal will flash rust quicker than 'heck'.
          Even the original coating,(what is it Zn Chromate?) is susceptible
          Every now and then I transfer a fingertip of oil from the dipstick to the fuel pump dome, the distributor vacuum module and the engine number boss..
          Driving a 1973 TR6
          Doing ZS carb repairs
          email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

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          • #6
            As I recall, Paul (Brosky)(sp?) illustrated a method to remove the two valves on his TR6 website.
            Last edited by SapphireBlue72; 05-04-2021, 10:19 AM.
            Walt
            CC80954U '72 TR6 original condition/sold 16.500.
            poolboy rebuilt the Z-S Carbs. Philstr6 rebuilt both rear hubs.

            Comment


            • #7
              thanks for that suggestion, Walt. I forget all the stuff Paul has done over the years - and that Jeff did the refresh on the components. I'll never get that good with my parts, but I'll get it looking better. Ken - agreed - that shiny will go away quick, regardless of that finish.

              quick question - my original has the big spring inside - the new aftermarkets don't. in short, where does that big spring go? and I'm not going to have that screen unless it shows up - it aint in my original parts bag. Lou told me, on my new repo, to pull the screen, and make sure I have a good external filter. So, I imagine I can pull that off with my old one too.

              cheers
              g

              Comment


              • #8
                Very nice, Guv!

                Powder coated mine with Chrome finish

                So..to protect from oxidation, you could get it powder coated with clear coat, or do what I did.


                Click image for larger version

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                Keith, Huntsville AL, 1971 CC66559U
                10.0:1 CR gasflowed head | Weber DCOEs | CP "150hp" Cam | Good Parts Ram-Air induction | Distibutor by Advanced | Lightened flywheel | Phoenix SS Exhaust System | HVDA 5-Speed | Good Parts R200B Diff and CV axles | Good Parts suspension and anti-roll bars | Willwood Calipers and Vented Rotors | Good Parts Dual Brake Master Cylinder | Konig Rewinds | Boyd 15 gal tank | Miata Seats and Mr Mikes covers | Carl Visser dash | Mohair hood | Gas-strut bonnet and boot lift kits

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                • #9
                  Keith - my friend. it has been too long. cheers

                  Love this look. thanks for that advice. I think that is where I am leaning. I'll get this tidied up, and let you know as we get ready for reassembly.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by L.O. Guvna View Post

                    quick question - my original has the big spring inside - the new aftermarkets don't. in short, where does that big spring go?

                    cheers
                    g
                    Are you saying that the aftermarket PUMP does not have the spring OR are you saying an aftermarket REPAIR KIT did not include a spring ?
                    As far as where it goes...check out the FUEL SYSTEM chapter in either or both Haynes and Bentley...you'll see where it goes in both
                    Last edited by poolboy; 05-04-2021, 03:27 PM.
                    Driving a 1973 TR6
                    Doing ZS carb repairs
                    email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Ken - sorry for the reply. That aftermarket kit I had that I replaced didn't have a spring. The kits don't have springs. The only spring I see is the one with the original. Makes me wonder how these new ones work. unless it fell on the garage floor - I don't recall it, and I have all the parts to that pump too.

                      I'm looking at the harbor freight tumbler polisher rigs. I watched some great videos on it - wondering if palltech uses that to micro polish.

                      Comment


                      • poolboy
                        poolboy commented
                        Editing a comment
                        Only 10 days later.....that's not bad.

                    original fuel pump restoration

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