weeping freeze plug

[L.O. Guvna]

Below the distributor, my freeze plug is, weeping, best way to describe it. still in place, but with brown coolant, water, around it. gunky, sort of. I suspect a possible freeze in the engine block and the plug trying to do its job.

next steps? is it more than just replacing the freeze plugs? I worry about damage.

thanks
G

[Charlie(74)]

Have you tried testing the coolant to see what temperature it is good to? One of these:

[SapphireBlue72]

You could have the coolant system pressure tested- check for seepage at all sealing points.

Change your engine oil, mark level on dipstick and watch for level change- if coolant is mixing with oil.

[ed_h]

I found this on my block. Under that big washer was a rubber plug that expanded when the nut was tightened. It apparently fixed a weeping problem. Im pretty sure you can still buy those plugs.

Ed

[UberXY]

I bought some of the expanding rubber plugs like Ed has shown at a hardware store, but I’ve never used them in an engine. Must have been a field repair as you can buy whatever size freeze plugs you need at NAPA.

My boat popped a plug after a prolonged freeze. Generally simple to replace...$5 and a soft hammer. But GMC put the plug at the back of the block behind the flywheel, which meant pulling the inboard V8 engine to do a 5 minute $5 repair.

[RatRidgeRoadster]

I had a weep in I think the same freeze plug after I pulled and replaced most of them for a good clean out of the block maybe 6 or 7 years back. The same one wept after my engine rebuild 4 years ago even after I took extra care to seal it upon installation. On both occasions, a teaspoon or two of ground black pepper in the radiator followed by a drive of 30 minutes or so did the trick and stayed dry both times.

[dclark]

I had one on the manifold side let go and spray on the exhaust manifold (that was an exciting amount of smelly smoke) and when I removed it, it was rusted completely through. I decided to change them all and found a couple more that were on the verge of rust-through. It would probably be worth your time to check them all.

[Tush]

I know some of you guys watch John Twist...he recommends JB welding the plugs....

https://youtu.be/Nls6xf6L0i4

Cheers,
Tush

[ed_h]

As much as I admire and respect John Twists experience and knowledge, I'm not sure I could bring byself to do that.

Ed

[dclark]

Someone who spent a lot of time in SCCA racing with a TVR 2500 told me that JB welding them was the only way they could keep them from leaking.

[ed_h]

I never had the sense that it was that common a problem. If it really is, why not just install the rubber plug type? They can be tightened if necessary, and they would be easier and quicker to replace.

Ed

[oppositelocksmith]

On my recent engine build and a few other builds I've done years ago, I had weeping plug or two. I found that usually, given a little time, they will seal themselves back up. The exception to this is a rusted steel plug- they just get worse. As a result, I prefer brass plugs.

[Tush]

I have one weeping on my fresh rebuild using brass plugs...I am hoping that it will cure itself....it is the one beside the distributor as well.....

Cheers
Tush

[L.O. Guvna]

this is a good conversation, glad I am not alone, but hope this is low on the defcon level. Im working on my starter relay issue, and once that is stable, I think I am going to flush my system again. I did that a few years ago, and that was healthy, as so much gets stuck in the block passages. My overflow is rusty - so, there is a tell tale.

More to come - cheers
G