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  • weeping freeze plug

    Below the distributor, my freeze plug is, weeping, best way to describe it. still in place, but with brown coolant, water, around it. gunky, sort of. I suspect a possible freeze in the engine block and the plug trying to do its job.

    next steps? is it more than just replacing the freeze plugs? I worry about damage.

    thanks
    G

  • #2
    Have you tried testing the coolant to see what temperature it is good to? One of these:

    Click image for larger version

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    • #3
      You could have the coolant system pressure tested- check for seepage at all sealing points.

      Change your engine oil, mark level on dipstick and watch for level change- if coolant is mixing with oil.
      Walt
      CC80954U '72 TR6 original condition/sold 16.500.
      poolboy rebuilt the Z-S Carbs. Philstr6 rebuilt both rear hubs.

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      • #4
        I found this on my block. Under that big washer was a rubber plug that expanded when the nut was tightened. It apparently fixed a weeping problem. Im pretty sure you can still buy those plugs.

        Ed

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        For just a little more, you can do it yourself!

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        • #5
          I bought some of the expanding rubber plugs like Ed has shown at a hardware store, but I’ve never used them in an engine. Must have been a field repair as you can buy whatever size freeze plugs you need at NAPA.

          My boat popped a plug after a prolonged freeze. Generally simple to replace...$5 and a soft hammer. But GMC put the plug at the back of the block behind the flywheel, which meant pulling the inboard V8 engine to do a 5 minute $5 repair.
          Last edited by UberXY; 01-25-2021, 05:59 PM.
          SR
          73 TR6. HT/AC/OD
          86 930
          91 535i

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          • #6
            I had a weep in I think the same freeze plug after I pulled and replaced most of them for a good clean out of the block maybe 6 or 7 years back. The same one wept after my engine rebuild 4 years ago even after I took extra care to seal it upon installation. On both occasions, a teaspoon or two of ground black pepper in the radiator followed by a drive of 30 minutes or so did the trick and stayed dry both times.
            R3
            Jim Herter,͏͏͏͏͏͏͏͏͏Copperas Cove, TX
            Original Owner ֍ 1970 TR6 CC 50990 LO

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            • #7
              I had one on the manifold side let go and spray on the exhaust manifold (that was an exciting amount of smelly smoke) and when I removed it, it was rusted completely through. I decided to change them all and found a couple more that were on the verge of rust-through. It would probably be worth your time to check them all.
              1970 BRG TR6 - Carbs by Poolboy!
              1968 BRG TR250

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              • #8
                I know some of you guys watch John Twist...he recommends JB welding the plugs....

                https://youtu.be/Nls6xf6L0i4

                Cheers,
                Tush

                81 Alfa Romeo Spider Veloce, 81 Triumph TR8, 1973 Ford Capri
                73 Triumph TR6 CF4874UO, 68 Triumph TR250 CD5228LO
                62 Triumph TR4 CT6716LO, 60 Triumph TR3A TS69891LO
                60 Triumph TR3A TS64870LO, 59 Triumph TR3A TS44836LO
                https://www.youtube.com/user/cheftush

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                • #9
                  As much as I admire and respect John Twists experience and knowledge, I'm not sure I could bring byself to do that.

                  Ed
                  For just a little more, you can do it yourself!

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                  • #10
                    Someone who spent a lot of time in SCCA racing with a TVR 2500 told me that JB welding them was the only way they could keep them from leaking.
                    1970 BRG TR6 - Carbs by Poolboy!
                    1968 BRG TR250

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                    • #11
                      I never had the sense that it was that common a problem. If it really is, why not just install the rubber plug type? They can be tightened if necessary, and they would be easier and quicker to replace.

                      Ed
                      For just a little more, you can do it yourself!

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                      • #12
                        On my recent engine build and a few other builds I've done years ago, I had weeping plug or two. I found that usually, given a little time, they will seal themselves back up. The exception to this is a rusted steel plug- they just get worse. As a result, I prefer brass plugs.
                        1973 TR6 – BRG with beige interior, custom LED lighting
                        Hardtop, OD, Rollbar, 15”Koenigs
                        Bored, balanced and polished motor with PI cam, hi-comp head, triple DCOE's
                        Header, custom exhaust, custom alternator, e-fan
                        Lowered, poly suspension, Konis and rear anti roll-bar
                        www.coventrysfinest.blogspot.com

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                        • #13
                          I have one weeping on my fresh rebuild using brass plugs...I am hoping that it will cure itself....it is the one beside the distributor as well.....

                          Cheers
                          Tush
                          81 Alfa Romeo Spider Veloce, 81 Triumph TR8, 1973 Ford Capri
                          73 Triumph TR6 CF4874UO, 68 Triumph TR250 CD5228LO
                          62 Triumph TR4 CT6716LO, 60 Triumph TR3A TS69891LO
                          60 Triumph TR3A TS64870LO, 59 Triumph TR3A TS44836LO
                          https://www.youtube.com/user/cheftush

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            this is a good conversation, glad I am not alone, but hope this is low on the defcon level. Im working on my starter relay issue, and once that is stable, I think I am going to flush my system again. I did that a few years ago, and that was healthy, as so much gets stuck in the block passages. My overflow is rusty - so, there is a tell tale.

                            More to come - cheers
                            G

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