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  • Triple weber setup

    My friends tr6 PO upgraded to triple weber. Trying to understand what the dial on the lower right is used for. It comes from fuel line.

  • #2
    Looks like a fuel pressure regulator. It is probably used in conjunction with an electric fuel pump. Weber DCOEs only require around 3.5psi of fuel pressure. 4psi max.

    (actually from personal experience, the stock mechanical fuel pump does just fine with triple DCOEs)
    Keith, Huntsville AL, 1971 CC66559U
    10.0:1 CR gasflowed head | Weber DCOEs | CP "150hp" Cam | Good Parts Ram-Air induction | Distibutor by Advanced | Lightened flywheel | Phoenix SS Exhaust System | HVDA 5-Speed | Good Parts R200B Diff and CV axles | Good Parts suspension and anti-roll bars | Willwood Calipers and Vented Rotors | Good Parts Dual Brake Master Cylinder | Konig Rewinds | Boyd 15 gal tank | Miata Seats and Mr Mikes covers | Carl Visser dash | Mohair hood | Gas-strut bonnet and boot lift kits

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    • #3
      Keith is correct, that is a pressure regulator. Had one installed on my Jaguar, with twin Zenith Strombergs, only because the PO had one on the car when I bought it.
      Totally unneeded and potentially dangerous. One day, while running up the engine, with bonnet up, I saw a geyser of fuel spurting up from the thing, from that little hole in the top.
      CF1634U+O Pimento/Chestnut
      2nd owner, since 1975
      Now in Fair Oaks, CA

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      • #4
        Looks great.

        Which reminds me: couldn’t the valve cover in a TR6 be vented to the air filter housing instead of to both carbs?
        SR
        73 TR6. HT/AC/OD
        86 930
        91 535i

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        • #5
          It's not unheard of.
          Driving a 1973 TR6
          Doing ZS carb repairs
          email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

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          • #6
            Yup a pressure regulator probably for the electric pump.
            Last edited by lfmTR4; 01-24-2021, 02:22 PM.
            72 Pimento w/overdrive

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            • #7
              Originally posted by UberXY View Post
              Looks great.

              Which reminds me: couldn’t the valve cover in a TR6 be vented to the air filter housing instead of to both carbs?
              It could but it would probably make one heck of an oily mess on the filter elements and then dust would cake them.
              72 Pimento w/overdrive

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              • #8
                Originally posted by UberXY View Post
                Looks great.

                Which reminds me: couldn’t the valve cover in a TR6 be vented to the air filter housing instead of to both carbs?
                When vented to the air intake, it should be after the filter element. Kind of looks like it missed the element in the image.

                Dick

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                • #9
                  Wondered about the vents as well. The fuel pump the PO installed is on all the time too

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by dicta View Post

                    When vented to the air intake, it should be after the filter element. Kind of looks like it missed the element in the image.

                    Dick
                    True that except for the condensation drip. At least there should not be dust. Think I would run a more innocuous hose down below the engine and secure it like a draft use.
                    72 Pimento w/overdrive

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                    • #11
                      Did anyone notice my cheap solution to the hood release back up?

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                      • oppositelocksmith
                        oppositelocksmith commented
                        Editing a comment
                        I saw that. I have a 'fancy' version of that in my car. I'll have to post about it at some point.

                    • #12
                      Originally posted by CMGTR6 View Post
                      Did anyone notice my cheap solution to the hood release back up?
                      I was just getting ready to comment on your "budget emergency ripcord" bonnet release :-)
                      Tom Freeman
                      1976 TR-6, BRG, OD, in the midst of a multi-year frame off resto
                      1975 TR-6, Carmen red, project car, in storage
                      1973 TR-6, White, all original, my driver
                      1974 Spitfire (for sale)
                      1967 TR-4A, project car, (for sale)

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                      • #13
                        Originally posted by lfmTR4 View Post

                        True that except for the condensation drip. At least there should not be dust. Think I would run a more innocuous hose down below the engine and secure it like a draft use.
                        Draft tubes were in play for 100 years. Now illegal due to emission rules. Blow by can still be released into the carburetor air stream in a way to bypass the filter. The draft from incoming air is what makes this work.

                        Dick

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                        • #14
                          Can anyone recommend a fuel pump that should not have be on all the time (as it currently is).

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                          • #15
                            Originally posted by CMGTR6 View Post
                            Can anyone recommend a fuel pump that should not have be on all the time (as it currently is).
                            When you wrote "all the time" I assume you meant with the engine running, or at least with the ignition key in the 'run' position.

                            I connected my Purolator Electronic fuel pump's (black) ground wire to one of the three terminals on the oil pump pressure switch. (I can check which one of the three if you wish. It's the terminal that went to the Anti-run on valve) The fuel pump only runs when this pressure switch sees four lb. or more when the engine is running. Not a problem, as there's enough fuel in the carburetor and lines to start the engine.* The pump then receives the signal to operate. I also like it for its quasi-safety feature, as if the car was in a serious enough collision, the engine would stop, oil pressure would drop, and the engine would eventually run out of gas, like one with a mechanical fuel pump.

                            The red wire from the pump goes to a fuse connection powered by the ignition switch.

                            * If it's necessary to fill the supposedly empty fuel line up to and including the carburetor(s) it's easy enough to clip on a temporary ground wire to the pump. The pump will now run when the ignition key is in the run position.

                            Dick

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