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  • Pulling Rear Axle- Questions

    HI all - I'm about to replace a torn rear axle boot and wanted to know if there are any tips anyone has to remove the axle flange nyloc nuts that attach to the trailing arm studs without turning/unscrewing the trailing arm studs from the arm. I've done this before a couple of times and it always seems at least one turns out- I never trust them again and have had to helicoil them back into the trailing arm. (actually a friend of mine did the helicoil for me) and I don't currently have access to his help, so I want to get all the nuts off and then back on without turning the studs. Any suggestions?

    Thanks,

    Steve

  • #2
    Just posted this on another forum.

    Stripping preventative measures:

    Penetrating oil prior to removal.
    Pre-thread new nylocs on a bolt prior to installation.

    Tips I recall from Philstr6.

    May not fully prevent every one, but I managed 95% of mine without stripping, IIRC.

    Maybe one backed out, but none stripped, if I recall.
    Last edited by tr6harris; 10-14-2020, 07:06 PM.
    '74 TR6 CF13007U aka "Mr. T"
    Custom Blue (Delft-Like) and New Tan (Formerly Mallard and New Tan)
    Points, Ballast Bypassed, Bosch Blue Coil, Moss Cobalt Wires, Champion RN12YC plugs.
    Peaks and tweaks, but the spirit of Original
    Redlines always.
    My wife is the Driver, I'm just the Mechanic....

    Comment


    • #3
      If you heat the nuts with a propane torch (to expand them) & spray the threads/nuts with PB Blaster- that might make the nuts come off easier.
      Walt
      CC80954U '72 TR6 original condition/sold 16.500.
      poolboy rebuilt the Z-S Carbs. Philstr6 rebuilt both rear hubs.

      Comment


      • #4
        Good suggestions- I was thinking along those lines (lubricant and heat). I never thought about pre-threading the nylocs- I was under the impression nylocs were 'one and done' (don't want to re-use them.

        Comment


        • #5
          Not that I'm opposed to helicoils or keenserts because I have them in the Trailing Arms, but what's the problem with having the stud come off with the nut.
          When that happens, why can't you separate the two and reinstall the stud with loctite so it would be less likely to happen again...or am I not understanding the situation ?
          Driving a 1973 TR6
          Doing ZS carb repairs
          email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

          Comment


          • #6
            There is nothing technicallty worng with re-screwing the stud back in, but the aluminum TA is so soft - when they come out, I can't be sure some ot the TA threads haven't been deformed in the process. Not sure I want to trust my wheell not falling of to Loctite. Just my paranoia.

            Comment


            • #7
              Well... if you want to borrow the helicoil kit, let me know, it'll just cost you postage.
              http://www.pattonmachine.com/TAK.htm
              Driving a 1973 TR6
              Doing ZS carb repairs
              email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

              Comment


              • #8
                I keenserted all of mine proactively. Wasn’t really worried about them unscrewing with loctite but you CAN over tighten them and strip them and that is bad news.
                72 Pimento w/overdrive

                Comment


                • poolboy
                  poolboy commented
                  Editing a comment
                  We did a bunch of them that day in your garage, didn't we.
                  Funny thing mine was already helicoiled....I didn't realize it until I started drilling...just kept on...drilled out the helicoils inserted the keenserts.

              • #9
                Yup, it was almost assembly line.
                72 Pimento w/overdrive

                Comment


                • #10
                  Steve, it sounds from your first message like the TAs already have helicoils, is that right? If so, Poolboy's advice is good, just remove the nuts and if the studs also come out use a little locktite to help keep them in next time.

                  Mine are still in the aluminum thread, but I haven't had any issues with them yet (knock wood), but the nuts are so low torque it's hard to imagine a lot of trouble removing them, especially if they've been apart within the last few years.
                  Bill Connell
                  1969 TR6 CC28790
                  TR6 project log
                  St. Paul MN

                  Comment


                  • Slouis
                    Slouis commented
                    Editing a comment
                    HI Bill - don't know yet, haven't pulled the drive shaft, having some trouble getting the springs out first even with TA arm fuly lowered- need to borrow a spring comressor down here), but from the condition of the car and what I know of its history- they've probably been out once before (for new U-joints) but that was 6-7 years ago if the PO records are correct. I'm guessing all of studs are still in the trailing arm and not in any coils. My concern is based on my experience wth my '74 which was in better shape/much lower mileage - on that car I had studs come out when removing the nuts and spin around (and dig in the TA) when I replaced the nuts even with low torque on the wrench (14 lbs if I remember correctly) . If the studs come out of the TA (not coils), is it safe just to use loctite (red) and screw them back in ? I'll try to lube the nuts and pre- thread them before I put them back on to avoid spinnng the studs.

                • #11
                  As for removing the springs, rotating the axle allows the T/A to drop a bit lower in certain positions.

                  Suggest rotate the axle a bit and see if you can get a tad more drop. No spring compressor required.
                  '74 TR6 CF13007U aka "Mr. T"
                  Custom Blue (Delft-Like) and New Tan (Formerly Mallard and New Tan)
                  Points, Ballast Bypassed, Bosch Blue Coil, Moss Cobalt Wires, Champion RN12YC plugs.
                  Peaks and tweaks, but the spirit of Original
                  Redlines always.
                  My wife is the Driver, I'm just the Mechanic....

                  Comment


                  • #12
                    You also need to disconnect the shock levers from the TA, in case you haven't already.
                    Bill Connell
                    1969 TR6 CC28790
                    TR6 project log
                    St. Paul MN

                    Comment


                    • #13
                      It’s not them backing out that you need to worry about, it’s them pulling out taking the threads with them under load. That fine thread in Aluminum is not a good thing for the forces back there.
                      72 Pimento w/overdrive

                      Comment


                      • #14
                        I just replaced both side u-joints and had 5 studs come out (2 on one side, 3 on the other). The threads were all fine and I used blue loctite when I put them back in. New nylocs went on all studs with no problem at all. Mind you, the nuts that were on there were only ~4 years old so everything came apart fairly easily.
                        Derek M
                        Ontario, Canada
                        ’74 Sapphire blue CF22200U
                        Fan Eliminator. ZS Carbs (my rebuild)
                        Poly Bushings, RG Trailing Arm Brackets.
                        Gear Reduction Starter, Pertronix,
                        Rebuilt/mild upgrades engine (TR5 cam)

                        Comment


                        • #15
                          Well the Triumph gods have looked kindly on me this time- everything went surprisingly smoothly. I was able to wrestle the springs out using two BIG screwdrivers as leverage- they were just stuck to the 50 year old pads , or what was left of them. Changed out the shocks (rebuilt lever shocks from Worldwide) and re-installed with Goodparts shock links. To remove the axle, I used Silkroil on the TA stud nuts, let them sit a while and used gentle but firm pressure on a socket wrench and they all came off without turning the studs. Cleaned up the hub axle, greased the outer hub axle U-joint ( inner was okay), put fresh gease on the axle threads , replaced the boot and gaiter and it all went together. I lubed the TA studs and torqued the stud nuts to about 15 lbs. without turning any. Amazing. Since it went so well, I decided to temp fate and do the other side even though the boot wasn't torn - just old. Same result on the other side! I guess it's time to buy a lottery ticket now

                          Now- if I can only get my front end finished- waiting on a second hand vertical link - hopefully that solves my ball joint to link binding problem.

                          Comment

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