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  • Brake Frustration

    Well, after two and a half years I am finally finishing up my restoration/recreation, but am becoming increasingly frustrated over the brakes. Everything is either new or rebuilt by people who have been recommended on this forum. I cannot get a firm brake pedal, no matter what I do. I have bled the brakes by the pump method, vacuum method and the pump up sprayer method, which by the way is awesome. After each method and no longer getting air through the bleeders, the pedal will feel so so, but as soon as I start the engine and the vacuum booster kicks in, the pedal goes to the floor. The original TRW master cylinder that I bought from Moss haId air bubbles releasing into the reservoir each time I pumped the brakes, so I assumed that I got a bad master cylinder. I ordered another from Rimmer Brothers and it is doing the same thing. Am I missing something here...I don't believe there should be air being pumped into the reservoir. Are TRW master cylinders that bad?

    Thanks in advance for any suggestions!
    1970ish CC54713L
    HVDA Toyota 5spd
    Nissan Diff
    Miata Seats

  • #2
    Brake booster is bad or leaking into the master?

    Try removing the vac hose to the booster and be sure to plug it so the car will run. Does your pedal still go to the floor after you start the car?
    1972 Sapphire TR6 #CC84,something

    1959 Red TR3 (Wife's)

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    • #3
      No, air bubbles coming back is not normal if you bled all the air out. I suspect a seal in master assuming all 4 line connections at the MC are air tight. TRW ain’t what it used to be, probably made overseas. I’ve never bought a new MC because of all the bad press on the repops. I rebuilt my original with a kit fromTRF 10 years ago since the bore was not pitted and it has worked fine with DOT 3 and now 5 for over 6 years.
      72 Pimento w/overdrive

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      • #4
        Sounds like a bad booster first....

        There is some back flush of fluid nto M/C's when the pedal is pushed. Thats why you have to put the cap back on the M/C when bleeding.
        '74 TR6 CF13007U aka "Mr. T"
        Custom Blue (Delft-Like) and New Tan (Formerly Mallard and New Tan)
        Points, Ballast Bypassed, Bosch Blue Coil, Moss Cobalt Wires, Champion RN12YC plugs.
        Peaks and tweaks, but the spirit of Original
        Redlines always.
        My wife is the Driver, I'm just the Mechanic....

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        • #5
          Do you have the upgraded (larger Morgan) rear wheel cylinders fitted? If so those require more volume. Let a brake person tell you about this. My car stops fine but there is a longer pedal travel to engage the pads and shoes. I am going to a larger dia. master cylinder to make up for the increased rear wheel cylinders.
          Best Therapy
          http://www.britishv8.org/Triumph/AlbertGary.htm
          Zoom Zoom

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          • #6
            With no vacuum to the booster, it still has a lonnnng pedal, so I think the booster that was rebuilt by Ted Schumacher is ok. It stops, but from a speed of no more than 30 mph. I don't think I want to try it from anything faster.

            I do have the the larger rear wheel cylinders. What master cylinder will handle the Morgan wheel cylinder. I may just try stock wheel cylinders.

            I just find it odd that it sends a burst of air or fluid into the reservoir whenever the pedal is pressed hard.
            1970ish CC54713L
            HVDA Toyota 5spd
            Nissan Diff
            Miata Seats

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            • #7
              I have a stock master and Morgan cylinders and my pedal travel is ok and my car stops fine. It sounds like your system is compromised somewhere.

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              • familysimon
                familysimon commented
                Editing a comment
                Seal on the front of the Master Cylinder is bad. When the engine runs, vacuum in the break booster sucks fluid out the front of the MC

            • #8
              Is your PWDA centered?

              Gordon

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              • #9
                Yes, the PDWA is new and came with a bolt to keep it centered until beeding is done.
                1970ish CC54713L
                HVDA Toyota 5spd
                Nissan Diff
                Miata Seats

                Comment


                • #10
                  check the rear brake adjustment.Tighten up the adjusters and see if it makes a difference

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                  • #11
                    I did check the rear brake adjustment. I have ordered a new set of stock wheel cylinders and a rebuild m/c from Apple Hydraulics.
                    1970ish CC54713L
                    HVDA Toyota 5spd
                    Nissan Diff
                    Miata Seats

                    Comment

                    Brake Frustration

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