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  • Head Gasket Woes - Help!

    I rebuilt my 1972 engine 2 years ago, 2,000 miles ago. The machinist shaved the head and block to make sure the surfaces were flat. He shaved the block to the point that the recesses at the top of the cylinders were cut flat. I posted about this at the time. Not knowing the difference I installed a gasket made for a 1972 engine. I took it for a test drive and after 4 miles the timing chain broke because the coolant and the oil mixed and the cam seized. I was able to hone the cam and get it on the road again. This time I used a 1971 gasket. My car ran well but it always had a leaky head gasket. I pulled the engine to send my transmission to Quantum and replaced a couple of core plugs painted the block polished this and polished that. I almost ignored the head gasket but decided to pull the head to see if I could finally stop the leak. What I found was awful. The gasket was wet on both sides and obviously was doing its job.
    I have another 71 gasket coming from Moss but after taking a closer look I think there is something else wrong. The gasket has spots on it that look like the head doesn't match the block. AT first, I thought the later gasket was the problem. Then I compared the block to the head. There are holes in the head that are not in the block. Do I have a mismatched set? If not, how do I get this gasket to seal? I am at a loss please help! Click image for larger version

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    Attached Files

  • #2
    That's normal. Click image for larger version

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    Driving a 1973 TR6
    Doing ZS carb repairs
    email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

    Comment


    • #3
      I agree with Ken. I just ran across the same situation with my 250 engine head & block. Apparently normal.

      Cheers,

      Wolf
      76 TR6 CF58170UO (The Lady)
      72 TR6 CC80068UO (The Slut)
      68 TR250 CD4893L (retirement project)

      Comment


      • #4
        What can I do get the head seal correct?

        Comment


        • #5
          Thinking out loud;

          1. Are you tightening the head bolts per the manual? i.e. starting in the middle and circling outward?
          2. head studs in the correct way? I think it's short threads in the block and long ones out.
          3. What are you torquing too? Test your wrench against another torque wrench.
          4.put a framing square/straight edge along the cylinder head and block and see if there is any warping.
          5. Are you putting the thread lubricant on the studs both in the block and the ones that take the nut on top of the cylinder head. Put it on the washers too. Grandpa said oil works for this too.
          6. Chase the threads in the block to make sure they are clean
          7. Any silicone on the gasket itself?




          i am sorry this is happening to you.
          1972 Sapphire TR6 #CC84,something

          1959 Red TR3 (Wife's)

          Comment


          • #6
            You may have noticed from the pictures I posted I believe in using Permatex Copper Spray.
            Read the ad. and you'll see why.
            https://www.permatex.com/products/ga...-temp-sealant/
            Driving a 1973 TR6
            Doing ZS carb repairs
            email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

            Comment


            • #7
              I agree with Poolboy on Permatex Copper Spray!
              Bob

              Comment


              • #8
                Also...Re-Check area on block around bolt holes, to be sure surface is not higher. Use of a large flat file is often helpful to be sure these areas are flat with the rest of the block.

                Torque in proper sequence in increments. Personally, I do it in 4 steps, 25%, 50%, 75% and 100% of required torque.

                If possible, take your torque wrench to a local machine shop, and see if they can verify the general accuracy of your wrench.

                Consider use of a high quality stop leak. I have heard that one BL mfg many years ago, used pelletized Barrs Leaks (NFI) in all new vehicles, claiming they could not get the head gaskets to seal properly without it.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Thanks for the feedback. I just tracked my new gasket and I should get it today.

                  These are the things I did:

                  I replace the bolts last time with ARP bolts
                  I do torque in the pattern shown in the manual
                  I did put lubricant on the bolts
                  I will put a straight edge on it before I start rebuilding

                  These are the things I didn't do:

                  I didn't torque in measured steps 25%-50% 75% 100% I will this time
                  I didn't use a sealant - is the consensus copper spray? How heavy of a coat do you use?

                  Lastly, the gasket is a payen brand.

                  Thanks!
                  I'll keep you posted

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I doubt if you'll get a consensus on whether to use Copper Spray or not ...maybe 4 or 5 opinions. Is there ever a consensus or even enough opinions on this Forum to be considered a meaningful poll ? Me, I didn't take a poll I just took the advice of an older machine shop owner.
                    My technique is to hang the gasket up by a wire. a light but even coat on both sides...when almost dry another light coat,,I do that not more than a couple hours prior to installation.
                    But if you have other problems that still exist, don't expect the spray to work miracles.
                    Driving a 1973 TR6
                    Doing ZS carb repairs
                    email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      ARP specifies their lubricant is to be used when applying torque. Different lubricants will give different torque values.

                      Gordon

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                      • #12
                        +1 on the Copper Spray. As PB suggests, application of light coats is important, so as to avoid irregularities or too much solvent deposition which could result in "run off"

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                        • #13
                          Use the ARP recommended torque when installing the head. You paid a lot of money for those extra strength studs, the advantage they provide is additional clamping force. You need to torque higher to get that force.
                          Also, did you retorque the head at 500 miles after installation? That is a good practice that helps keep the gasket sealed.
                          ‘70 TR-6

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                          • #14
                            I took the head gasket for a short test drive last night. and there were no leaks, from it. My rear carb poured gas from the top of the float bowl. My thought is the float is stuck. I guess I needed a project today. I did not photo the carb leak.
                            Attached Files

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                            • #15
                              Probably not a stuck float, although they can sink, they usually pivot freely. If anything is stuck it almost has to be the needle valve,,,OR if someone replaced the needle valves with Grose jets, that's where my money would be.
                              Driving a 1973 TR6
                              Doing ZS carb repairs
                              email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

                              Comment

                              Head Gasket Woes - Help!

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