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  • Radiator leak

    Drove to work today and noticed a little antifreeze smell on the way home. Was greeted to this. So, get it fixed or buy a new radiator?
    Jack
    1973 TR6, "Ethyl"

  • #2
    If you have a radiator repair shop nearby, I would take it to them and let them assess it. The rad shop that pressure tested mine and installed the t-stat bung and drain recognized it right away and said that they don’t make them like that anymore with brass tanks. Whole thing including paint cost me $35 and was done in a day. A new one will be a couple of hundred and more waiting.
    72 Pimento w/overdrive

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    • #3
      Not sure from pic exactly the source(s) or magnitude of the leak(s). If we are talking about minor seepage at core, you might consider, as an interim fix, use of one of the many "stop leak" products available. Personally, I like the pelletized Barrs Leaks (NFI). If you can find a good radiator shop, repair of yours would probably be the best option. Also, make sure your cap is in good condition and is not an issue.

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      • #4
        You can't buy a new radiator anywhere near the quality of the original. Find a radiator repair shop and ship it to them if you can't find one locally.
        CR Smith on 2515 W. Market in York, PA does top quality radiator re-core work. Get some estimates by phone.
        Walt
        CC80954U '72 TR6 original condition/sold 16.500.
        poolboy rebuilt the Z-S Carbs. Philstr6 rebuilt both rear hubs.

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        • #5
          I will try to find a repair shop in town. Thanks for the advice. I guess I never thought the old radiator would be that kind of quality.
          Jack
          1973 TR6, "Ethyl"

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          • #6
            I can't tell from the pic, but make sure you have a 7 lb radiator cap. Mine was recored andthjen started leaking at all four corners. Rad shop said the cap was 13 lbs and caused it. Sounded good to me.
            1972 Sapphire TR6 #CC84,something

            1959 Red TR3 (Wife's)

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            • #7
              My view of pic indicates the cap pressure rating is a two digit # As I recall, Bentley says 13# ??.

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              • #8
                15lb cap.

                Bentley manual shows should be a 13# cap.
                Last edited by a4passata6; 05-16-2020, 11:58 AM.
                Jack
                1973 TR6, "Ethyl"

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                • #9
                  Yeah, but some of us have dropped down in pressure.. nothing wrong with 7 psi and a 180*F T-stat especially if you don't have to deal with city traffic
                  Driving a 1973 TR6
                  Doing ZS carb repairs
                  email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by poolboy View Post
                    Yeah, but some of us have dropped down in pressure.. nothing wrong with 7 psi and a 180*F T-stat especially if you don't have to deal with city traffic
                    I won’t have much city traffic. I was wondering why there were lower pressure caps on Moss’ website.
                    Jack
                    1973 TR6, "Ethyl"

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by a4passata6 View Post

                      I won’t have much city traffic. I was wondering why there were lower pressure caps on Moss’ website.
                      The later TR6 came with the 13 lb. cap, as did my '73. I changed to the 7 lb. cap after blowing out the second heater valve replacement abut 20 years ago. No penalty in doing so. I added a shutoff valve between the valve and head, but haven't had the need to use it either.

                      Dick

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                      • #12
                        Have a drain installed, or maybe a bung for a temp switch while its out.
                        Last edited by tr6harris; 05-16-2020, 03:27 PM.
                        '74 TR6 CF13007U aka "Mr. T"
                        Custom Blue (Delft-Like) and New Tan (Formerly Mallard and New Tan)
                        Points, Ballast Bypassed, Bosch Blue Coil, Moss Cobalt Wires, Champion RN12YC plugs.
                        Peaks and tweaks, but the spirit of Original
                        Redlines always.
                        My wife is the Driver, I'm just the Mechanic....

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                        • #13
                          Related to or in conjunction with the introduction of the Thermostatic Vacuum Switch (TVS) which along with the 13 psi radiator cap was also introduced in 72....efforts dealing with overheating and boilover associated with the increased numbers of TR6's in congested city traffic....
                          The reason for the TVS as stated in "Triumph Emission Controls Training Notes" was:
                          "During high ambient temperatures and 'CITY' driving the coolant temperature may become excessive in which case a valve is activated in the switch....which then closes off the vacuum retard to the distributor.
                          This action allows the (idle..Ed.) engine speed to rise, allowing greater coolant circulation and thereby reducing overheating."
                          ........................................
                          Last edited by poolboy; 05-16-2020, 10:20 PM.
                          Driving a 1973 TR6
                          Doing ZS carb repairs
                          email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by poolboy View Post
                            Related to or in conjunction with the introduction of the Thermostatic Vacuum Switch (TVS) which along with the 13 psi radiator cap was also introduced in 72....efforts dealing with overheating and boilover associated with the increased numbers of TR6's in congested city traffic....
                            The reason for the TVS as stated in "Triumph Emission Controls Training Notes" was:
                            "During high ambient temperatures and 'CITY' driving the coolant temperature may become excessive in which case a valve is activated in the switch....which then closes off the vacuum retard to the distributor.
                            This action allows the (idle..Ed.) engine speed to rise, allowing greater coolant circulation and thereby reducing overheating."
                            ........................................
                            Interesting. I looked at my upper hose and didn’t see the TVS. I assume the PO removed it. I also can’t find the run on control valve. The 73 came with both?
                            Jack
                            1973 TR6, "Ethyl"

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Yes they did, but since a lot of people disable the vacuum retard "feature", it would make sense to remove the TVS switch and it's adapter and replace the 2 piece upper radiator hose with the pre-72 hose.
                              As far as the Anti Run-on Valve (ARV) that was a byproduct of the poor gasoline quality and engine detuning around the mid 70's Arab Oil Embargo and US emission control efforts.
                              I don't think many of us would miss the ARV these days.
                              Driving a 1973 TR6
                              Doing ZS carb repairs
                              email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

                              Comment

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