Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Engine Rebuild On My '76

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Engine Rebuild On My '76

    I'm just about finished with the planning of my engine rebuild. I'll try to document most of the major stages on here for the benefit of anyone who needs it. There's a TON of information on this forum and out there on the internet about how to do this process, and I've tried to review it all. But I'm sure I've missed some things, so please forgive me if I ask too many questions. There is a lot of experience among you all, and I know you will remind me of things I didn't think of or read about.

    The mileage on my engine is unknown. The PO said it had been rebuilt sometime in the late '90s, but most of what he told me about the car has been inaccurate. When I replaced the thrust washers a couple years ago, the rear main bearing looked to be standard size. Why am I rebuilding it? Here's why: High oil consumption, worn bearings, low compression on #6, smokes when starting, a slight ridge worn into the rear crank journal, and it leaks oil like a sieve. I'm currently planning on keeping the cam and head as stock, but that may change after the teardown and see what I have. I'm also having the gearbox converted to J-overdrive.

    The first question is this: How high off the floor does the car need to be to remove the engine & gearbox together? I have a set of wheel dollies that I plan on having the car sit on so I can move it around the garage as needed. But I'm concerned that the car will be too low and not allow the engine to be tilted enough for the gearbox to clear the tunnel/accelerator shaft. I can put it on jackstands if needed. I've already purchased an Oberg Tilt Lift engine sling.
    Pete, Collierville TN
    1976 CF54385 U
    A rolling resto in progress...

  • #2
    Originally posted by prasnick View Post
    I'm just about finished with the planning of my engine rebuild. I'll try to document most of the major stages on here for the benefit of anyone who needs it. There's a TON of information on this forum and out there on the internet about how to do this process, and I've tried to review it all. But I'm sure I've missed some things, so please forgive me if I ask too many questions. There is a lot of experience among you all, and I know you will remind me of things I didn't think of or read about.

    The mileage on my engine is unknown. The PO said it had been rebuilt sometime in the late '90s, but most of what he told me about the car has been inaccurate. When I replaced the thrust washers a couple years ago, the rear main bearing looked to be standard size. Why am I rebuilding it? Here's why: High oil consumption, worn bearings, low compression on #6, smokes when starting, a slight ridge worn into the rear crank journal, and it leaks oil like a sieve. I'm currently planning on keeping the cam and head as stock, but that may change after the teardown and see what I have. I'm also having the gearbox converted to J-overdrive.

    The first question is this: How high off the floor does the car need to be to remove the engine & gearbox together? I have a set of wheel dollies that I plan on having the car sit on so I can move it around the garage as needed. But I'm concerned that the car will be too low and not allow the engine to be tilted enough for the gearbox to clear the tunnel/accelerator shaft. I can put it on jackstands if needed. I've already purchased an Oberg Tilt Lift engine sling.
    Pete --- When I remove my engine the car sits on its wheels on the garage floor. If you were to removed the gear box separately, you would be ahead to raise the car enough to remove the hardware that connects it to the engine.

    You will appreciate the Oberg lift.

    Dick

    Comment


    • #3
      I put the front mine up on short jack stands and remove the front tires. This allows me to get my engine lift fully under the car and I can tilt the engine and transmission as much as I need. My engine lift is probably too big.
      Attached Files

      Comment


      • #4
        When I pulled my engine I did it with the tranny as a single unit and had all four wheels lifted for easy access to the underside. I think the only time I needed it though was to get at the bolts securing the aftermarket tranny plate that’s used for the J type overdrive. The 72 would have come with an A type. I think having the front up when pulling the engine with the tranny does make it easier but I’ve only done this once.
        1972. J Type Overdrive
        Fan Eliminator. PB Carbs
        RG Hubs. Poly Bushings
        RG Trailing Arm Brackets. Fidanza 9Ib Flywheel
        Addco Rear Sway Bar. Gear Reduction Starter

        Comment


        • #5
          I just take the body off to remove the engine and trans

          Cheers
          Tush
          81 Alfa Romeo Spider Veloce, 81 Triumph TR8
          73 Triumph TR6 CF4874UO, 68 Triumph TR250 CD5228LO
          62 Triumph TR4 CT6716LO, 60 Triumph TR3A TS69891LO
          60 Triumph TR3A TS64870LO, 59 Triumph TR3A TS44836LO
          https://www.youtube.com/user/cheftush

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by Tush View Post
            I just take the body off to remove the engine and trans

            Cheers
            Tush
            You funny guy. You should have your own YouTube channel!
            Pete, Collierville TN
            1976 CF54385 U
            A rolling resto in progress...

            Comment


            • #7
              Made some good progress today. Barring any unforeseen difficulties, I should have it out tomorrow. What are the chances of me getting that air injection rail off on one piece?

              Click image for larger version

Name:	3E759316-8288-4C47-86F7-7BA217A15B6C.jpeg
Views:	859
Size:	2.94 MB
ID:	531505Click image for larger version

Name:	2355A8BB-F75D-45D4-8073-7DB90DE5E3BB.jpeg
Views:	833
Size:	2.87 MB
ID:	531506Click image for larger version

Name:	E86C626D-724B-451E-AD6A-1C437CB36B1D.jpeg
Views:	877
Size:	2.64 MB
ID:	531507
              Pete, Collierville TN
              1976 CF54385 U
              A rolling resto in progress...

              Comment


              • #8
                I would approach that air injection rail, like any other rusted fitting. Plenty of patience, soaking for days with PB Blaster, intermittent use of mild heating, use of a punch and hammer intermittently to "jar' the fitting, and trying to tighten slightly, before attempting to loosen. Use of flare nut wrenches preferred to provide more contact on fitting. Some even use pair of vice grips over flare nut wrench, to prevent flare nut wrench jaws from spreading as torque is applied and minimize chance of rounding fitting. Patience will be the key to success. Just my 2 cents.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by prasnick View Post
                  Made some good progress today. Barring any unforeseen difficulties, I should have it out tomorrow. What are the chances of me getting that air injection rail off on one piece?

                  Click image for larger version

Name:	3E759316-8288-4C47-86F7-7BA217A15B6C.jpeg
Views:	859
Size:	2.94 MB
ID:	531505Click image for larger version

Name:	2355A8BB-F75D-45D4-8073-7DB90DE5E3BB.jpeg
Views:	833
Size:	2.87 MB
ID:	531506Click image for larger version

Name:	E86C626D-724B-451E-AD6A-1C437CB36B1D.jpeg
Views:	877
Size:	2.64 MB
ID:	531507
                  Look closely at the stud, 2nd from the left. There's a crack in the manifold at the 1 o'clock position. Should I be concerned?
                  Pete, Collierville TN
                  1976 CF54385 U
                  A rolling resto in progress...

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Is that a shadow, or is there also a full or beginning crack @ 10:00 at same stud ?

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by JIMCRAWL View Post
                      Is that a shadow, or is there also a full or beginning crack @ 10:00 at same stud ?
                      Jim, it's just a shadow. I don't see any other issues, but will have it removed from the car in a few hours and can inspect it more closely.
                      Pete, Collierville TN
                      1976 CF54385 U
                      A rolling resto in progress...

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Pete.. Please let me know regarding any updated assessment. At this point, guess it may depend on how lucky you feel. You might get lucky, and not have any more issues, and again, you might have that section crack completely off upon reassembly or shortly thereafter. Hopefully, someone will come along to share any experiences they have had with that type of crack and possible repair.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Mystery solved... Depending on the condition of the rest of the engine, this will either be replaced by a later model without the air rail; or, a header.

                          Click image for larger version

Name:	B85B90BB-9004-4531-BDA3-4105100E8967_1_201_a.jpeg
Views:	728
Size:	3.33 MB
ID:	531570Click image for larger version

Name:	C96D4E82-54E1-4D53-8969-64537FBC279D_1_201_a.jpeg
Views:	693
Size:	2.46 MB
ID:	531571Click image for larger version

Name:	49D87216-C05D-4D8C-A3DC-92DF3916622B.jpeg
Views:	700
Size:	2.65 MB
ID:	531572
                          Pete, Collierville TN
                          1976 CF54385 U
                          A rolling resto in progress...

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Houston, we have vehicle separation! This is my first engine extraction, and hopefully my last. But the Oberg Tilt Lift made it easy. Well worth the $$$. Having the car on wheel dollies gave plenty of room underneath for the transmission to clear the garage floor and accelerator shaft. I did disconnect the steering rack and moved it forward. I may have been able to get the engine out without doing that, but it would have been very close.

                            Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_1300.jpeg Views:	0 Size:	2.21 MB ID:	531598
                            Last edited by prasnick; 05-04-2020, 10:17 PM.
                            Pete, Collierville TN
                            1976 CF54385 U
                            A rolling resto in progress...

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Good job. It gets fun from here.
                              1972 Sapphire TR6 #CC84,something

                              1959 Red TR3 (Wife's)

                              Comment

                              Engine Rebuild On My '76

                              Collapse

                              Search

                              Collapse

                              There are no results that meet this criteria.

                              6-Pack Car Club of the Americas Statistics

                              Collapse

                              Topics: 39,190   Posts: 486,988   Members: 12,223   Active Members: 628
                              Welcome to our newest member, BrookeTow.

                              Upcoming Events

                              Collapse

                              There are no results that meet this criteria.

                              Working...
                              X