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Engine Bay Restoration

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  • #31
    That looks really good! Well done

    Comment


    • Soup
      Soup commented
      Editing a comment
      Thank you Charlie. Now when I look at it a couple of days later, I'm excited to get back on it. I just don't know when exactly that will happen. Really wish i had a heated garage so I could work thru the winter on this! I think that would be fun.

  • #32
    I’m back at it. I didn’t take as long a break as I thought I would. The more I thought about it the more I knew I had to get back on this if I wanted to get color on before winter kicks in. I blocked the original primer, glaze putted the sore areas, re-epoxied the whole car (1 coat), re-primed the whole car (2 coats), found a few more small sore spots fixed those and spot epoxied and primed them. These pictures are the latest.

    My plan is to block sand this in the driveway today and hope I don’t come across anything else. The plan is to then prep the car for color so it’s ready to go when I am. I still need to buy the paint. I’m probably going to change the color from Emerald Green to the darker Triumph/British Racing Green. I’ve always liked the darker green so if I’m going to pull the trigger nows the time.

    https://youtu.be/-Uzf-jzLDuI


    ​​​​​​​
    Attached Files
    1972. J Type Overdrive
    Fan Eliminator. PB Carbs
    RG Hubs. Poly Bushings
    RG Trailing Arm Brackets. Fidanza 9Ib Flywheel
    Addco Rear Sway Bar. Gear Reduction Starter

    Comment


    • #33
      I sanded it today in daylight and I’m happy that I didn’t find anything egregious. While I found some minor imperfections I’m ok with them and most will be very difficult to see once everything is back in the engine bay anyway.

      I started with a red scotch bright doing the whole engine bay and valance. From there I went with 400 grit on a flexible block and with that I blocked the inner fender arches and the front valance. The 400 did a great job at getting rid of 95 percent of the primer orange peel. I did scratch through the primer into the epoxy primer in a few places but I don’t think that should present any problems with me putting color right on top of that. If anyone thinks this could be a problem please let me know (I’ll do another coat of urethane primer just didn’t want too). See picture below.

      I feel I’m in good shape. Tomorrow I’ll re-mask everything and whip it down to be ready for the big day. When is the question. This coming week is both forecast to be wet and cooler but that’s ok it gives me plenty of time to buy the rest of my materials and plan my strategy.

      https://youtu.be/_-A9AoMWefI
      Attached Files
      Last edited by Soup; 09-26-2020, 08:20 PM.
      1972. J Type Overdrive
      Fan Eliminator. PB Carbs
      RG Hubs. Poly Bushings
      RG Trailing Arm Brackets. Fidanza 9Ib Flywheel
      Addco Rear Sway Bar. Gear Reduction Starter

      Comment


      • #34
        You might want to remove the primer from the top half of the ground tab on the battery deck and then mask it before you shoot the color.

        Edit: Do the same for the ground tab on the front valance, if needed.

        What are the three holes in the Passenger side wheel arch for?
        Last edited by RatRidgeRoadster; 09-26-2020, 09:50 PM.
        R3
        Jim Herter,͏͏͏͏͏͏͏͏͏Copperas Cove, TX
        Original Owner ֍ 1970 TR6 CC 50990 LO

        Comment


        • #35
          Originally posted by RatRidgeRoadster View Post
          You might want to remove the primer from the top half of the ground tab on the battery deck and then mask it before you shoot the color.

          Edit: Do the same for the ground tab on the front valance, if needed.

          What are the three holes in the Passenger side wheel arch for?
          I was thinking about those very ground tabs this morning while I was sanding. Thanks for pointing that out. I will take care of that before I paint. As far as the three holes, I have no idea what they’re for, assumed they were stock.
          1972. J Type Overdrive
          Fan Eliminator. PB Carbs
          RG Hubs. Poly Bushings
          RG Trailing Arm Brackets. Fidanza 9Ib Flywheel
          Addco Rear Sway Bar. Gear Reduction Starter

          Comment


          • #36
            Click image for larger version  Name:	DSCF1184.JPG Views:	0 Size:	250.3 KB ID:	536178Click image for larger version  Name:	DSCF1158 (3).JPG Views:	0 Size:	245.2 KB ID:	536177 One of those holes would be for this steel brace between wheel well & air deflector/radiator surround.
            Last edited by SapphireBlue72; 09-27-2020, 08:17 AM.
            Walt
            CC80954U '72 TR6 original condition/sold 16.500.
            poolboy rebuilt the Z-S Carbs. Philstr6 rebuilt both rear hubs.

            Comment


            • Soup
              Soup commented
              Editing a comment
              Bummer, wish I had realized this. I had a welder come over to fix a couple things and I would have had him weld those up. Oh well! Just FYI, The radiator bracket is not one of those 3 holes but rather a welded stud that is affixed with a nut.

          • #37
            Yes, I did see that welded stud with a nut affixed in your photo, wondered if that was the bracket hole.

            At this point you could tape off the holes underneath (Gorilla Tape or such) & fill with plastic body filler from on top.
            I've done that successfully, sanded smooth, then dabs of paint to blend.
            Walt
            CC80954U '72 TR6 original condition/sold 16.500.
            poolboy rebuilt the Z-S Carbs. Philstr6 rebuilt both rear hubs.

            Comment


            • #38
              Originally posted by SapphireBlue72 View Post
              Yes, I did see that welded stud with a nut affixed in your photo, wondered if that was the bracket hole.

              At this point you could tape off the holes underneath (Gorilla Tape or such) & fill with plastic body filler from on top.
              I've done that successfully, sanded smooth, then dabs of paint to blend.
              A friend of my stopped by and suggested something similar but at this point I really don’t want to mess with it. This is yet another time I wish I owned a welder. Maybe, at some point as I get better at this body work and painting thing I can fix it with weld and blend it. I still have rest of the car to take care of.
              1972. J Type Overdrive
              Fan Eliminator. PB Carbs
              RG Hubs. Poly Bushings
              RG Trailing Arm Brackets. Fidanza 9Ib Flywheel
              Addco Rear Sway Bar. Gear Reduction Starter

              Comment


              • #39
                So I sprayed the base coat British Racing Green today. Quite happy with the color and the body work. There is a however though...the base has fish eye! I didn't for obvious reason put down the clear cause now I have to figure out a solution to the fish eye problem. I know it’s not moisture. The fish eye started in the first coat, not everywhere but mostly everywhere and worse is some spots than others. I know it’s not moisture because it only appeared in the initial coat, subsequent coats didn’t make it worse.

                I realize, I think anyway, the problem must be in the preparation of the surface. I initially wiped the car down with rubbing alcohol like I had been for the primers without issue. When I first started to spray, I stopped and called the paint supplier. He suggested cleaning the car with water and then wax and grease remover which I did. When I went at it the second time the cowl was coming out great so I continued to paint. The fish eye then started to bleed through in other areas other than the cowl. At this point I just finished painting since the paint was mixed and I figured it would give me more to work with when I sand it, since I assume I will need to sand it.

                Heres some pictures but it doesn’t show very well. You might see it better in the video. It is pretty bad though.

                Appreciate any thoughts on why and how to best fix this mess. Thank you.

                https://youtu.be/15HN-AaR9-Q
                Attached Files
                Last edited by Soup; 10-03-2020, 07:01 PM.
                1972. J Type Overdrive
                Fan Eliminator. PB Carbs
                RG Hubs. Poly Bushings
                RG Trailing Arm Brackets. Fidanza 9Ib Flywheel
                Addco Rear Sway Bar. Gear Reduction Starter

                Comment


                • #40
                  It just occurred to me what may have caused the fish eye. I used my two stroke leaf blower in the garage to clean the floor and I pointed it in engine bay too. Even after using the blower, the engine bay did get cleaned with rubbing alcohol followed by warm water and then wax and grease remover but this may not have been enough to remove the exhaust or whatever else the blower may have gotten on the panels. It’s the only thing I can come up with and it seems plausible.
                  1972. J Type Overdrive
                  Fan Eliminator. PB Carbs
                  RG Hubs. Poly Bushings
                  RG Trailing Arm Brackets. Fidanza 9Ib Flywheel
                  Addco Rear Sway Bar. Gear Reduction Starter

                  Comment


                  • #41
                    I spent this past Sunday wet sanding the inner fenders, cowl and front valance to remove the fish eye from the base coat. I followed that up with using a scotch bright on the entire car followed by a good thorough cleaning. I then took Tuesday off from work to paint my final coat of paint and add two coats of clear. Im happy with how things came out!

                    I can now move onto the many other bits that remain. This does wrap up the purposes of this thread and I hope you enjoyed it.

                    Kevin

                    https://youtu.be/As6vS42gPNM
                    Attached Files
                    1972. J Type Overdrive
                    Fan Eliminator. PB Carbs
                    RG Hubs. Poly Bushings
                    RG Trailing Arm Brackets. Fidanza 9Ib Flywheel
                    Addco Rear Sway Bar. Gear Reduction Starter

                    Comment


                    • #42
                      Congratulations. We all need victories like this.
                      1972 Sapphire TR6 #CC84,something

                      1973 Harvest Yellow MGB V8

                      Comment


                      • #43
                        Soup , That engine bay came out great!
                        Brian Cunningham
                        1973 CF4325U Overdrive has been added
                        "Liz's" Plate is: T-AH6

                        Comment


                        • Soup
                          Soup commented
                          Editing a comment
                          Thanks Brian!

                      • #44
                        hey Soup, I'm in a similar place with my car this year, doing some rust fixing and engine bay cleanup while my engine is out for a rebuild. I'm curious, did you continue on with your body work and painting this year, or just the engine bay (and front end) for now? Are you doing the rest of the repaint piecemeal or all at once? I wonder how well a more gradual approach would work to an overall body restoration vs doing it all at once.
                        Bill Connell
                        1969 TR6 CC28790
                        TR6 project log
                        St. Paul MN

                        Comment


                        • #45
                          Hi Bill,

                          I have only done what you see above in this thread, at the moment. I live in CT so we are just coming out of winter and since I don’t have a heated garage I needed to put the paint work on hold.

                          I do plan on doing the car basically as you put it; piecemeal. I’ll be doing it this way primarily because I just don’t have the time to dedicate to doing it all at once. Wish I did. I have a few home projects that I need to take care before I get back to the car this year. Hopefully I can pull it back out by June.

                          I bought a gallon of paint hoping that would be enough to cover the entire car. But because of my inexperience, I used more than I had planned doing the engine bay. I plan on buying another quart to mix with the gallon to make sure the colors blend perfectly and give me additional room for error. Although this doesn’t guarantee a perfect paint job, it will be a step in the right direction.

                          This has been a big job (for me), quite challenging and rewarding. I can’t wait to get back behind the wheel again even if it is multi color.

                          Good luck and enjoy the process.
                          1972. J Type Overdrive
                          Fan Eliminator. PB Carbs
                          RG Hubs. Poly Bushings
                          RG Trailing Arm Brackets. Fidanza 9Ib Flywheel
                          Addco Rear Sway Bar. Gear Reduction Starter

                          Comment


                          • frostr6
                            frostr6 commented
                            Editing a comment
                            It's good to know I'm not the only one thinking about bodywork like this. I'm sure that the engine bay is a relatively small part of a full repaint project, but right now it sure feels like something I don't want to do twice. I appreciate your comment and sharing your experience, it helps with confidence on my own work. Good luck and hope your car is back on the road soon.

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