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  • Oil pump shaft bushing

    After losing my way for a while (I thought I needed a GT6), I started my ‘74 TR6 in earnest. Interior is stripped, fuel tank out, front fenders and bonnet removed, Cylinder head is at the machine shop and motor is torn down awaiting its turn to the machine shop. The last piece to remove from the block is the oil pump shaft bushing. As it is cast does it need to be removed and if so does it go up through the dizzy hole or down through the pump hole from the bottom?

    Thanks,
    Larry

  • #2
    A local TR owner and 6-pack contributor warned me about that bushing when I recently got my engine rebuilt. I told my machine shop to be careful with it. I'm not sure how they dealt with it. You can read about Tom's experience here: https://forums.6-pack.org/the-6-pack...ed-help-please

    I'm not sure if things changed since then. I'm sure others with more recent experience will chime in.
    Last edited by aad; 02-10-2020, 05:14 PM.
    Anthony
    ’76 TR6
    Westchester County, NY

    https://triumph-tr6.wixsite.com/triumphtr6

    Carbs by Poolboy
    Good Parts: Rear hubs; Adjustable TA brackets w/ Nylatron Bushes; Throttle Shaft Bushings, Aluminum Rack Mounts
    VB: Headlight Wiring Harness
    Moss:Backup Hood Release
    World Wide Auto: Rear Lever Shocks

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    • #3
      It comes out from the top, and is reported to be a little fragile. I think the manual says to pound it out, but a less violent method seemed safer to me, so i pulled out with this makeshift puller.

      Ed

      For just a little more, you can do it yourself!

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      • #4
        Why remove it ? Is it worn out or damaged ?
        Driving a 1973 TR6
        Doing ZS carb repairs
        email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

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        • #5
          Not speaking for Larry, but for me at the time, it seemed that a thorough cleaning of the oil galleys would be much easier with it removed.

          Ed
          For just a little more, you can do it yourself!

          Comment


          • #6
            Gentlemen,
            Thanks for the responses. Based on what I read I believed up through the top but last piece to come out I just wanted to make sure. I’ve got some 1/4” all-thread. We’ll rig up a puller as Ed suggested. Anthony, great web site. It looks like Moss sells a new bushing and shows in stock. (?) PB, trust me I thought about leaving well enough alone but this poor motor looks well worn and needs all the help it can get. Odo shows 44k, based on the condition of the rest of the car I believe that’s 144k.Timing chain and gears look newer but the pistons, rod and main bearings show OE and standard size. I’m thinking my $1,000 budget is out the window... I’m being funny of course. The head needed everything except springs so I suspect the block and crank will need everything also. ( of course I am replacing springs )
            Larry
            74 TR6 OD

            Comment


            • #7
              Ed_H’s puller is the way to go. The bushings were cast and machined. If you try to use an impact puller (as may have tried) you will crack the bushing. Ask me how I know? When I went to this particular circus the bushings were NLA so I had a bunch made in steel. Much more robust. I have both the TR6 type and the TR250 type. If forget if the 69 uses the TR250 type. It might

              Regards
              cygan

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              • #8
                The bushing is out with no apparent damage. The motor went to the machine shop. Thanks all.
                Larry
                ’74 Tr6 OD

                Comment

                Oil pump shaft bushing

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