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  • Fuel Pump leaks

    My current fuel pump seems to sweat/leak fuel from more than one area. My thought was to rebuild the pump. I've ordered a rebuild kit, a new inlet tube, and a compression sleeve and a new screen thanks to the timely post on brass screens.

    My pump doesn't have a priming lever (my car is a 1975) so I'm assuming that my pump is a reproduction pump. My question is, would I be better of sourcing an AC Delco original pump for my rebuild? Currently, there are none on E-Bay so if so, does anyone know where I might find one?

    Colfax, CA
    Current car, 1975 triumph TR6, 1981 Triumph TR8

    Past 1981 TR8
    1974,1973,1972 TR6
    1962 TR4

    https://www.f22collective.com/
    https://www.lilyrosephotography.com/

  • #2
    The rebuild kit....is it specifically for the pump you have ?
    I'm thru with rebuilding fuel pumps since I found this one...so far it's been the best aftermarket fuel pump I've installed.. replace the plastic screen or just leave it out.
    https://www.bpnorthwest.com/triumph/...0-tr6-gt6.html
    Driving a 1973 TR6
    Doing ZS carb repairs
    email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

    Comment


    • #3
      Can’t believe how cheap that pump is PB. I think I’ll pick one up for a spare.

      Cheers
      Tush
      81 Alfa Romeo Spider Veloce, 81 Triumph TR8, 1973 Ford Capri
      73 Triumph TR6 CF4874UO, 68 Triumph TR250 CD5228LO
      62 Triumph TR4 CT6716LO, 60 Triumph TR3A TS69891LO
      60 Triumph TR3A TS64870LO, 59 Triumph TR3A TS44836LO
      https://www.youtube.com/user/cheftush

      Comment


      • #4
        I know !!! .... Click image for larger version

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        and what else I like about it is the pivot pin can not come out like the Italian pump.
        Driving a 1973 TR6
        Doing ZS carb repairs
        email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

        Comment


        • #5
          I got tired of those compression sleeve fittings always leaking and changed to barb fittings. I had to re-thread the fittings to match the pump, but that was easy enough with a good tap and die set.
          The pump shown is for the barbs only. The unit in the car now, is one of the better repros, with the priming lever.
          Last edited by baws; 02-06-2020, 09:27 AM.
          CF1634U+O Pimento/Chestnut
          2nd owner, since 1975
          Now in Fair Oaks, CA

          Comment


          • #6
            I had to look up my old notes, but several years ago, I did what Baws did and converted my after-market fuel pump to barbed fittings. I didn't rethread the fittings though - I found fittings that were ¼-20 UNF. Most fittings available are NPT thread, which will not fit. I didn't worry about the seal at the bottom of the fitting; rather I used teflon tape on the threads, and after more than three years in service, there have been no leaks. The taper at the bottom of the pump bore is an odd angle; the standard fittings use 45 degrees which is not an exact match. The Teflon tape is absolutely required.

            I wrote an article for a 6-Pack magazine issue a few years ago with all the details.



            1976 TR-6 BRG - CF57239U
            Carbs by Poolboy
            Rear Camber Kit, Rear Hubs by Goodparts
            Gear Reduction Starter by TSI
            Distributor by British Vacuum

            Comment


            • #7
              Has anyone found longer tube nuts to make the gland seal tighter?

              Comment


              • #8
                I purchased a replica pump from Moss last year. It looks like Pool Boys pump but it didn’t say Powertune. I installed it this week. It worked fine for one day and a couple of test drives. It started leaking between the yellow cover and body

                I tried tightening it, no change. I removed the cover and found the rubber seal swelled larger than the mating surfaces. The plastic screen also was caved in. Moss is sending a replacement. I had a rebuild kit and I installed a new seal without the screen but it was as still leaking. Since it was 95 degrees on my garage I decided to install another pump I bought on EBay as a spare

                Moss like BPNW are out of stock on these pumps

                Seems like these replica pumps are hit or miss.

                I always use Lucas Ethanol Treatment at every fill up didn’t seem to help in this case


                Attached Files

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                • #9
                  I'd just leave out that plastic screen, they seem to curl up instantly in fuel, and probably do more harm than good. If you don't have a brass screen to use there, you're better off having the fuel filter just ahead of the pump anyway.
                  Bill Connell
                  1969 TR6 CC28790
                  TR6 project log
                  St. Paul MN

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by poolboy View Post
                    I know !!! .... Click image for larger version

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                    and what else I like about it is the pivot pin can not come out like the Italian pump.
                    I had that Italian pump in there for years and it was a workhorse. I was a broke 20 something kid and I had a large hose clamp wrapped around the pump with a spacer to keep the pivot shaft from working out! Before that mod the car would die every so often and I’d hop out a slide the shaft back over and it would work another week or so. Ah youth!

                    Years later, I finally found a proper pump which I rebuilt with the kit from that vintage firm: Now and Then was the name or something like that? That pump is solid but the Italian one is still sitting in my boot as a spare. I spiked the the ends over so the shaft stays put now too. An old friend...
                    1974 TR-6 Logic Overdrive

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I ordered a rebuild kit from Then And Now. It comes with a new metal screen and I believe all the valves. The Powertune rebuild kit does not have a new screen and only comes with one valve

                      I hope to see the kit in a day or two....

                      https://www.then-now-auto.com

                      https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Co5YkkMuyZ0
                      Last edited by RossL; 07-21-2021, 01:13 AM.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Cygan View Post
                        Has anyone found longer tube nuts to make the gland seal tighter?
                        I filed about 1/16" off of the body of the pump, where the tubes screw into the body. Firmly stuff the inlet and outlet holes with paper towels and use a shop vac to keep cleaning up as you are filing............

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I did basically the same thing. Cut with a saw, then smoothed with a file.
                          Click image for larger version

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                          Driving a 1973 TR6
                          Doing ZS carb repairs
                          email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

                          Comment


                          • Cygan
                            Cygan commented
                            Editing a comment
                            This is a brilliant idea!

                          • poolboy
                            poolboy commented
                            Editing a comment
                            Thanks, John...Cajun engineering

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