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  • Fan belt removal

    I am replacing the water pump on my 71 TR6 and am having an issue with the fan belt. I cannot get it removed, not enough room for the belt between a pipe that crosses from the sides just above the pulley. The bar is a stiffener I believe, does it need to be removed?
    Dave

  • #2
    In extreme cases, yes. Or you can loosen the 3 bolts per side on the cross member and rotate it a bit to get the belt free. There are 2 widths of belts, 1/2" & 3/8". Sounds like you have the wide belt.
    The thinner belt WILL work on the wider pulley sets however.
    CF1634U+O Pimento/Chestnut
    2nd owner, since 1975
    Now in Fair Oaks, CA

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    • #3
      You might get away with loosening the engine mounts (and tranny mount too) and using a pry bar to muscle the engine rear wards to get some space. The prop shaft telescopes
      Dave C
      '72 Sapphire #CC82360UO
      Chapel Hill NC

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      • #4
        thanks, I'll give a try. Thought I was doing something simple, never had to move an engine to get the belt off. I have a Lehman diesel that needs the bottom radiator disconnected to change the belt

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        • #5
          And old rally trick is to zip tie a spare belt to that cross member before refitting it to the frame.
          I've also seen modified cross members with an indentation for extra clearance for belt R&R.
          CF1634U+O Pimento/Chestnut
          2nd owner, since 1975
          Now in Fair Oaks, CA

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          • #6
            Originally posted by davedesmarais View Post
            I am replacing the water pump on my 71 TR6 and am having an issue with the fan belt. I cannot get it removed, not enough room for the belt between a pipe that crosses from the sides just above the pulley. The bar is a stiffener I believe, does it need to be removed?
            Dave
            This belt removal thing pops up every now and then. We know that Triumph didn't design things to where one had to go thru hand springs to change this belt. The answer seems to be that the motor (rubber) mounts sag over time which decreases the space between the pulley and surrounding hardware. The 'cure' for this is to replace the worn motor mounts and lever the motor back towards the rear * before and during the final bolt tightening.
            Some temporary fixes have been to use dishwasher soap on the belt to help slip it thru. Others have jacked up the engine to get the belt off/on.

            *Doing this on my engine affords slightly more than 1/2 inch of space for the 1/2 inch belt.

            Dick

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            • ibjean325
              ibjean325 commented
              Editing a comment
              Yes, replace your motor mounts as they have sagged over time. One of the vendors-Moss UK or maybe Rimmer Bros offered "heavy duty" replacements...they were branded "Rover" when I received them.

          • #7
            Put a NAPA 'green stripe' belt on and it could be the last one you'll ever replace.
            I use a 9451 with my alternator spacing from the engine.
            http://www.napabeltshose.com/heavy-duty/hd-belts
            Last edited by poolboy; 10-25-2019, 10:14 AM.
            Driving a 1973 TR6
            Doing ZS carb repairs
            email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

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            • #8
              Watch out not to pry using the pulley, you will break it. It's cast iron....!
              Triumph TR6 - 1974 - Mimosa, O/D, black interior.

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              • #9
                I agree with Litespud. I had the same issue after replacing my rebuilt motor. Shoving the motor back a bit provided clearance for the fan belt, and tightened up the drivetrain noticeably, in a good way.

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                Fan belt removal

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