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Gearbox removal

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  • Cygan
    commented on 's reply
    Has to come out from above usually out through the passenger side door.

  • SapphireBlue72
    commented on 's reply
    Philstr6 did an excellent job rebuilding my rear hubs. He has the correct Churchill tooling and he knows how to use it. Very reasonable & quick, too.

  • 70Damson
    replied
    The gearbox was removed, rebuilt and reinstalled. It is quiet, shifts up and down effortlessly and is smooooth. Yesterday was the first drive and I savored every minute! I made every mistake one could make along the way and it took forever! I assembled, disassembled and reassembled the box so many times I could do it in my sleep. I am so proficient at taking the 3rd gear retaining clip off it only takes a few minutes. All the effort has made driving the car even sweeter!

    Many thanks to Philstr6 for all the guidance. Also, thank you to all who have posted on this subject and replied to my posts.

    Hmm, what will the next project be? Maybe rear diff, shafts and hubs or front suspension.

    Leave a comment:


  • Roverguy
    replied
    Out is easy compared to putting it back in!

    I did my first one in '77 in my 250. Non OD.

    Just did my 6 with OD last year, is it heavier or am I getting older, or both!

    Leave a comment:


  • MARKRL
    commented on 's reply
    Did mine last August. I pulled it out from the interior.

  • JochemsTR
    commented on 's reply
    SapphireBlue72....unbolt the engine and shift engine with tranny little forward. Small wrists and extension for socket are required. It was a clear trade-off between taking out seats, carpet, console etc. Installing it again was actually the easier part.

  • poolboy
    replied
    Yes, that's right....Bob Danielson to the rescue:
    http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/LocatingDowels.htm

    Leave a comment:


  • dicta
    replied
    Originally posted by poolboy View Post
    I think this what "Litespud" DaveC wrote is worth repeating:
    "At ~10 o'clock and 2 o'clock on the bell housing, there should be two 3/8" metal dowels, rather than threaded fasteners. Don't lose these, and take note of their position - they're necessary to align the engine/tranny for reinstallation."
    Misaligned of the tramsission without these alignment dowels inserted in the rear engine plate, the normal operation of the clutch will be affected.
    Dave probably meant 8 o'clock and 2 o'clock for these two 3/8" dowels.

    Dick

    Leave a comment:


  • poolboy
    replied
    I think this what "Litespud" DaveC wrote is worth repeating:
    "At ~10 o'clock and 2 o'clock on the bell housing, there should be two 3/8" metal dowels, rather than threaded fasteners. Don't lose these, and take note of their position - they're necessary to align the engine/tranny for reinstallation."
    Misaligned of the tramsission without these alignment dowels inserted in the rear engine plate, the normal operation of the clutch will be affected.

    Leave a comment:


  • SapphireBlue72
    commented on 's reply
    But, but...the top bolts of the bell housing?

  • 70Damson
    commented on 's reply
    Thank you!

  • 70Damson
    commented on 's reply
    Thank you!

  • 70Damson
    commented on 's reply
    Thank you!

  • 70Damson
    commented on 's reply
    Thank you!

  • JochemsTR
    replied
    I really don’t see an upside to attempting to take the tranny out from underneath
    Believe it or not, this is possible. No need to take out seats, console, tunnel...
    TR Friend performed this act against all odds and proved hardcore TR Drivers wrong.

    Jochem

    Leave a comment:

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