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  • Fuel filter disintegration

    So I've been tuning my car and going mad at the inconsistency of it. Finally discovered that I've had the "internal to the pump" plastic filter disintegrate, and it would seem some of it made it into the carbs. I would like to avoid completely dismantling things by taking them off the car. Are there downsides to removing the bowls with the carbs in place, or is there a better technique.

    much thanks
    Dave

  • #2
    I think it would be easier just to take the carbs completely off.

    Al

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    • #3
      What Al said. Yeah those repop plastic screens are the pits. The old one had a brass screen.
      72 Pimento w/overdrive - Lilred
      67 4A Royal Blue - Lilblue

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      • #4
        Iv'e removed the float bowls (to replace the O-ring in the plug), before and it's not that terribly difficult. Just be careful of the floats them selves, which will hang down.
        And yes, that plastic screen in the mech. fuel pumps will come apart in a matter of a few weeks.
        CF1634U+O Pimento/Chestnut
        2nd owner, since 1975
        Now in Fair Oaks, CA

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        • #5
          FYI you can get new metal screens in the pump rebuild kits ("AC1216 Fuel Pump Kit" ) sold by Then and Now Automotive http://www.then-now-auto.com/
          Derek M
          Ontario, Canada
          ’74 Sapphire blue CF22200U
          Fan Eliminator. ZS Carbs (my rebuild)
          Poly Bushings, RG Trailing Arm Brackets.
          Gear Reduction Starter, Pertronix,
          Rebuilt/mild upgrades engine (TR5 cam)

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          • #6
            I'd have the carbs on the bench..If there is any of that debris that went down stream, the chance are you're going to need to remove the needle valves....debris in the float chamber usually isn't harmful as much as that which is trapped in the needle valve 'vault'.
            Removing and replacing the needle valves, would warrant checking and possibly resetting float height.. Maybe a dentist like TR6BILL could accomplish that task with the carbs 'in situ'; but me, I'd have the carbs on the bench.
            What makes you think some of that material has affected the carbs ? What are they doing ?
            Last edited by poolboy; 07-03-2018, 02:09 PM.
            Driving a 1973 TR6
            Doing ZS carb repairs
            email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

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            • #7
              HI Poolboy

              Basically I was in a situation where suddenly everything sucked at any attempt to run the car hard, no power, running rough etc. and as I was tuning the car up, this threw me for quite the loop before I figured out what the problem was, and that it was unrelated to what I was doing. My changes seemed to result in idle better, everything else bad. I found an online discussion on no power at upper RPM where ultimately the problem was the fuel filter internal to the pump disintegrating, so I checked my fuel pump and viola. And there was material missing.

              I replaced the pump as a quick fix (I was supposed to be part of today's neighborhood parade), but the problem of the engine sucking under load was still there.
              Turns out removal and bench work was a lot easier than I thought it would be and let me do the job properly. About 3 hours all told including a quick test spin. I would have needed to remove them to get at and clean the little brass filters in front of the float valve, which is where the bits of plastic had accumulated. Mainly on one carb . My guess is the "T" junction where the gas line forks offers some kind of bias directing crap in the gas. I blew out all passages with a Chemtool spray as well as the screen filters, and checked for no blockages in the gas line.

              At any rate I suddenly have power again and can get to 4K RPM without feeling like stuff is about to come through the hood. Although I wish the engine was a bit smoother up there but that is next week's problem.

              I've have also already sourced the brass filters for the fuel pump. And will swap out the self sabotaging components ASAP. Learned a lesson I did not know I needed to learn!

              Thanks
              Dave
              Last edited by Dave Allan; 07-04-2018, 08:35 PM.

              Comment


              • poolboy
                poolboy commented
                Editing a comment
                Good going, Dave.

              • Derekmcallister
                Derekmcallister commented
                Editing a comment
                I don't mean to hijack this thread in a different direction, but are "little brass filters in front of the float valve" common? I don't have anything like that on my original or replacement valves that came in the rebuild kit that I purchased from Moss.

            • #8
              Hi Derek You stroked my curiosity. The little thimble like filters do not appear to come with rebuild kits, but if you source the needle valve separately it comes with the filter.

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              • #9
                Personally, I don't like those screens. If present, I remove them. They will clog up with accumulations of stuff too small to have any affect on the jet .....and the needle valve itself can prevent anything larger from passing into the float chamber.
                Last edited by poolboy; 07-05-2018, 10:22 AM.
                Driving a 1973 TR6
                Doing ZS carb repairs
                email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

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                • Derekmcallister
                  Derekmcallister commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Sounds good to me. I just replaced a sticking valve (re-used the previous one) and neither has the screen.

              • #10
                FWIW, I buy needle valves from Joe Curto.
                Joe also is the supplier for the needle valves that TRF sells...possibly other retailers as well....His valves do not come with the screen.
                I'm not saying all replacement needle valves are screenless, just that Joe's are.
                Driving a 1973 TR6
                Doing ZS carb repairs
                email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

                Comment


                • #11
                  I have those little filters installed, also installed a pre filter installed before the carbs. Probably dont need both, but the external filter was installed later.....
                  '74 TR6 CF13007U aka "Mr. T"
                  Custom Blue (Delft-Like) and New Tan (Formerly Mallard and New Tan)
                  Points, Ballast Bypassed, Bosch Blue Coil, Moss Cobalt Wires, Champion RN12YC plugs.
                  Peaks and tweaks, but the spirit of Original
                  Redlines always.
                  My wife is the Driver, I'm just the Mechanic....

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