Starter clunk

[RatRidgeRoadster]

I must say i was expecting a bit less than 9V on the test you preformed, but I still think the problem is as I stated. I'd like to see the results you get from Poolboy's latest test of running the wire to the fuse box. I expect it to start and continue to run.

Should it start and run, I'd like you to do one more test: While the engine is still warm, return the wiring back to how it was, and remove the white/yellow wire from the starter. It might take slightly longer to start, but it should continue to run when you release the key.

[RatRidgeRoadster]

I'm sorry to say that due to a brain fart I gave you some bad advice about relocating the white/yellow wire on the starter. :blush: I can't explain why I thought that would work, even at a time when I had "Diode" on my mind.

No mater how you connect the white/yellow to the starter you will need a diode wired inline to block the ballast wire from feeding something in the starter. The 5/16? terminal with the white/orange wire(s) will be the best place to connect the diode.

An example of an inline diode is shown below and this particular jumper is sold just for this purpose.
You could make one with some terminals and splices and a ~ $2.00 diode

[Seattle76]

Ok, back from another fun work trip to New Jersey... Anyway, I missed typed that I got 9 volts from the coil - it was 6! something like 6.40 or thereabouts. I'll try to find some time today to get the wires swapped and let you know how it goes. Once again, thanks for all your help!

Gregg

[poolboy]

I don't think I've seen a TR6 ballast wire supply so little voltage.
With a strong battery, 9 would be about right.
Make sure you have the negative terminal of the coil on a good ground when you test for voltage feeding the coil.