Issues with Hi-torque starters?

[baws]

I installed a new fancy starter back in 2015 when I did the rebuild. In the last couple of years I've had "no cranking" problems. Battery is good. Double checked connections etc.
Thinking about going back to the original starter, which worked fine, before the rebuild.
Thoughts guys?

[tr6harris]

Never understood the need for a hi-torque or gear reduction or whatever starter.

My AGM battery spins the heck out of my stock starter.

Just didnt understand the need...(Maybe if I had some crazy high compression engine or something...

More of a comment/opinion on my part, so take it FWIW.

You may put your old starter back in and realize: No way. Back to the GR!...(no idea)

[poolboy]

I installed a new fancy starter back in 2015 when I did the rebuild. In the last couple of years I've had "no cranking" problems. Battery is good. Double checked connections etc.
Thinking about going back to the original starter, which worked fine, before the rebuild.
Thoughts guys?

never mind...I read your post too quickly and misunderstood 'no cranking' problems for 'no cranking problems'.

[lfmTR4]

Try taking a jumper cable to the starter directly from the battery to rule out the wiring & connections. Attach the starter end first then touch the battery terminal.

[baws]

Thanks guys! Exactly the guidance i needed. Will keep you posted on the "progress" .

[ed_h]

I also don'really understand the problem that these GR starters claim to solve.

Ed

[poolboy]

A hi torque seemed like the way to go being that it was new and all.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ITFW...9ADD8&index=49

[baws]

Additionally, when I first installed the thing, I had a problem in that the original stock starter had connection for 2 small wires off the stock harness, while the Hi-Torque unit only had one.
Are they all like that?

[poolboy]

There should be at least 2 terminals ....one is for a white/red directly from the ignition switch or from the starter relay if a 74 or 75 to activate the solenoid ..and the other terminal is for the big wire from the battery or connection block to power the actual starter motor.

[baws]

Doh! Forehead slap.
Turns out there are indeed, 2 small wire connections, plus the big ass wire from the POS terminal. The one I inadvertantly disconnected while messing about, was between the starter and the block, very hard to see.
The starter now cranks again!

[poolboy]

Funny how that works,huh, Bruce ?

[baws]

Backstory on this little escapade is, I ordered a new POS cable replacement from Moss to hopefully correct an undercharging issue with the alternator. Long story short, the repro cable is not the same quality as the Lucas cable and the starter end connection shorted against the starter body (thank God for the quick battery shut off dohickey!). Put the old POS cable back in and all is well in Lucas land again.
Have ordered another POS cable from BPNW and will get it lengthened to better reach the big ass terminal on the bottom of the starter and with a proper, insulated connector.

[L.O. Guvna]

got talked into my hi torque by my then shop, eclectic sports cars run by the late Ed Bernard. my starter was tired, and slower in spinning - so, sure why not. I've been on that starter since 14 or so.

no issues going on 9 years. but here is what I like. My engine starts faster. Im sure its close to the same revs before it hits, but I think I am saving on engine wear by starting faster? prob not. Oh, and these are poolboy cars - thanks again, Ken. Now what will affect my starting is my local chit gas, and sitting for a while. So my engine hasn't fired since early feb when it headed to the shop.

guvnal

[bartman]

So Baws, your POS cable from Moss was a POS?

[baws]

So Baws, your POS cable from Moss was a POS?

Well, let's just say it was not up to the standard of the original or TRF replacement part of some years ago.