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Late 75/76 ignition switch replacement with recommended TRF alternate

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  • Late 75/76 ignition switch replacement with recommended TRF alternate

    Stewards,

    in a previous thread, and thanks to Jim and others for their input, the issues I was having with run on and ignition issues ended up being the ignition switch behind the key. I've either replaced that over the years, or rewired it - I can't remember. I know I had soldered on those posts before. Regardless, this rig was not only wearing out, it was decaying. In its final stage, the starter function didnt work. popped the clutch to get home recently from a tr6 gathering.

    Sunday night, while looking for this part, I am in the TRF catalogue, throwing darts at which switch this could be. I decide to go to the facebook TRF page, and click chat, and magically, some automation comes up - how can I help you, Chris? So I tell it, what I am looking for. I'm sure I am going to stump the machine. A few minutes go by, and I get a reply. What year? Wow. This works - so, I eventually have this great chat with Dan, who just happened to be logged in that night, upside down working on an HO train layout. After some additional pics from the side of this weathered housing, I find this part, LU30563. So this is out of stock there, but TRF has been advising on a cheaper version with male spades on the rear. And in this conversion, the brown wire, with red line is no longer used - for run on purposes.

    That part is also on back order, but apparently available, and headed to Amagh. I also ordered a horn push, and am adding replacement keys too. I mean, lets get 100 dollars on this order if someone stopped working trains on a sunday night to help a customer.

    i'll keep everyone updated - figured this was best to start a fresh thread for those possibly in this boat, or might soon be. Per Dan, inside these switches are balls and springs, and mechanical stuff to fail. He concurred on Lou's constant advice on additional wiring from alternator to battery terminal. That is happening this week.

    I am curious about that extra wire. and what to do with it. I am happy to have an alternative. Like our other switches that seem to evaporate over time, there is enough similar stuff out there, and jeez - BL was still making simlar switches into the 80s.

    cheers
    G

  • #2
    When you receive the new switch and decide to use it, look closely at the back where the metal "tabs" are bent to hold the the thing together. If any of them look questionable consider a dab of epoxy on each for security. I purchased a couple about 10 yrs ago and BOTH came apart during installation.

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    • #3
      very good advice. thanks Beb

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      • #4
        L.O. as you can see from the pic I relocated mine to between the center gauges. I have a 76 and am not concerned with keeping it original. I thought it was an absolute PITA to insert the key under the steering wheel. I also thought the steering lock was not a great deterrent. Much happier where I put it.

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        • prasnick
          prasnick commented
          Editing a comment
          Wow, those seats look comfy!

      • #5
        I believe 1997 Miata seats

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        • #6
          Pod - thats interesting you say that - I had considered that a few years ago, realizing now how this could be a complete change to this car. I agree, the lock rig is ****, and my car already has a theft deterent - manual gearbox.

          I need to ask - is there another pic? This one is the side of the car, and I can't see your setup.

          thanks Pod

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          • #7
            I relocated my ignition switch to the dashboard - modern switch replaced the dash rheostat, which became redundant when I switched to LED dash lights. Had to extend some of the wires, but much more convenient having the ignition on the dash
            Dave C
            '72 Sapphire #CC82360UO
            Chapel Hill NC

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            • #8
              Here you go

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              • #9
                update - the switch arrived this past week, and I went thru the process of crimping female connectors on the wires. With this change, you delete the run on wiring. I like that I can pull this switch, pull the leads off, and replace if necessary.

                I had forgotten my other starter switch issues over the years. Most recently....6 years ago? No start. accessory and run, fine. But the starter didnt go, and I was reminded by poolboy in a separate thread that there is no starter relay on this car - which lead mechanic Ed to look at my wiring, and determined while a 76 car, it was built late 75 for the 76 year, and has 75 wiring in it. Ed looked thru that diagram, looked at the seat/belt circuitry? and realized it wasn't starting because that wasn't functioning - 76 safety design. A simple jumper in the wiring hub in the passenger foot well, tucked up under, and the car fired.

                So that is what I have now. No start. 4 wires hanging from my ignition area - white with red stripe, brown, solid white and white with pink. Those are connected to the new switch, terminals 1,2,3,5 There is no 4 post. I have correct accessory, run, but no start. And this no start happened as my old swtich was deteriorating. So, I associated the start issue with the switch. But now, I think the start is due to something else, even my starter, which is reduction, and only about 5 years old. Could be that jumper wire, starter age, or even my starter switch.

                I may drop this off at a shop and let them scratch on it.

                Not sure any of this helps anyone - I hope it does.

                cheers - and thanks again for the reminders of the inspection of the unit. Lite - I am leaning more to converting to dash start.

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                • #10
                  If you relocate the ignition switch think about what's required if you have to gain access to it again...what a pain that's going to be....leave it the way it was intended,
                  Jumping the starter solenoid will tell you if the starter is the problem or not.
                  Driving a 1973 TR6
                  Doing ZS carb repairs
                  email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

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                  • #11
                    You say you have 4 wires hanging from the ignition area, why don't you touch the exposed ends of the brown and white/red terminals together and see if the starter turns over or if you can hear the click of the starter relay and/or the starter solenoid.

                    If nothing, pull the white/orange and brown wires from the starter relay and touch the brown wires to where the white/orange wire was to see if the relay clicks. If it clicks, pull the white/red wire from the starter relay and touch it to the brown wires previously removed to see if the starter does anything.

                    Report back if needed.

                    EDIT: I left out the word relay in the 2nd paragraph
                    Last edited by RatRidgeRoadster; 01-16-2021, 04:26 PM.
                    R3
                    Jim Herter,͏͏͏͏͏͏͏͏͏Copperas Cove, TX
                    Original Owner ֍ 1970 TR6 CC 50990 LO

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                    • #12
                      Ken - sage advice. I will leave it, cause I was not thinking forward at all like that.

                      Jim - those are great instructions. I'm on second coffee, a bit chilly outside, and will take these checks to the car after a little more warm up outside.

                      I am also going to disassemble my original swich - Ed_h style. I am not putting it back in, but just curious why it failed, springs, balls, all that. I just have to know how stuff works.

                      cheers - back shortly with answers to the flow instructions, Jim. Both of you gents came up in in our 3rd gathering of the Triumph TR6 of Dallas. And new customers for Ken, for sure - David Cass in Texarkana for one.

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                      • #13
                        Jim, all. update.

                        I was wrong about the start position. I am getting a clicking. I went to the passenger foot box, and I mentioned the seat circuit that was bypassed. I thought there was jumper on 2 wires, but Ed/mechanic cut them, connected them. on the 75, a plug with....8 or so wires in this wheel male/female rig that plugs into a female receiver near the glovebox. I pulled that wire apart, reconnected it, and tested the 3 positons. None of that may have had an effect, but listening closer now, with the hood up, I could hear clicking in the engine area. I am trying this alone, so im reaching around, trying to hear the click. I want to believe its the starter, but it sounds like the distributor area.

                        I'll get my wiring diagram out.

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                        • #14
                          If it sounds like the distributor area, it would be the starter relay. If you have doubt, you could remove the purple/yellow wire from the horn relay, push the horn button to see if they sound the same.

                          I'd say it's time to move on to the 2nd paragraph of my reply in post #11.
                          R3
                          Jim Herter,͏͏͏͏͏͏͏͏͏Copperas Cove, TX
                          Original Owner ֍ 1970 TR6 CC 50990 LO

                          Comment


                          • #15
                            Indeed on the paragraph 2 of post 11. Weather has been ****ty - rain, and even hail yesterday, as I rushed the school car into the garage. sun is out, and printing these test instructions from Jim, and will report back. I'm almost certain at this point its the starter relay. I either replaced that a while back, or didnt, and if not, i may have a spare in my toolbox.

                            cheers

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                            Late 75/76 ignition switch replacement with recommended TRF alternate

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