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  • #16
    I have the Bosch 13107 also. Pretty much plug and play. Moss sells a conversion plug for early cars. Run the parallel wire, 55A is border line for the original loom gauge wire specially if you get a dead battery. If you believe in insurance, wire is cheap.
    72 Pimento w/overdrive - Lilred
    67 4A Royal Blue - Lilblue

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    • #17
      Approximately what guage wire should we use add a secondary, parallel wire to the battery?

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      • #18
        I used stranded 8 gauge.
        72 Pimento w/overdrive - Lilred
        67 4A Royal Blue - Lilblue

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        • #19
          I just installed the same alternator and need to verify that I have the wiring correct. I'm trying to source a plug for these ratty connectors. You can see the little brown wire lying off to the right with painters tape on the end, and will cap/secure it before starting the car. I also have an additional 8 gauge wire that I will add either to the middle connector, or the post at 11:00. The tape on top of the alternator is just to remind me to tighten the belt.

          Click image for larger version

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          I think I read somewhere that you can remove this item. I have no idea what it does, but if I need to put it back, someone please let me know. It plugs into the connector on the left side of the post at 11:00.

          Click image for larger version

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          Pete, Collierville TN
          1976 CF54385 U
          Mechanically restored
          Head 9.5:1(ish) + GP2 Cam

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          • #20
            Originally posted by prasnick View Post
            I think I read somewhere that you can remove this item. I have no idea what it does, but if I need to put it back, someone please let me know. It plugs into the connector on the left side of the post at 11:00.
            It's probably an EMI noise suppression device. If you hear a whine in your radio without it, you need it.

            Ed
            For just a little more, you can do it yourself!

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            • #21
              attach the extra wire to the center lug and Moss sells a new connector for the wire ends . Also put some vacuum caps on the "hot" posts sticking out of the back of the alt so you don't let any smoke out.

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              • #22
                In the category of "Nothing is Ever Easy," I finally got this alternator installed. From uncertainty about electrical connections, to a failed attempt to convert the mount to an earlier version, this project fought me the whole way. Since my car is a '76, I had to re-clock the housing since the adjustment arm is on the bottom. In doing this, I broke one of the brushes. No problem, I ordered another alternator and intended to order another brush set later and use the first unit as a spare. After installing the second unit, I had a problem. When starting the car, the ignition light stayed on dimly at idle. When increasing the RPM, it would go out, but then come back on at idle. After consulting the Dan Masters book, I confirmed the problem was the alternator. No problem. I took the good brushes out, and installed them in the first alternator. Works great! Now I have one alternator for the price of two...

                The electrical connections are as follows:

                Big Brown Wire on large spade, far right
                Little Brown Wire on large spade, middle
                Brown/Yellow Wire on small spade, left
                Extra 8 Gauge Wire on large post. The other end of this wire is tied into the positive battery post connector.


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                I couldn't use the stock plug because it is oriented upside down for my configuration, hence the assorted connectors.
                Pete, Collierville TN
                1976 CF54385 U
                Mechanically restored
                Head 9.5:1(ish) + GP2 Cam

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                • #23
                  Anyone who has the Bosch/Remy 55A Alternator #13107 - is the red-circled terminal in the pic below live (hot) all the time?


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                  Keith, Huntsville AL, 1971 TR6
                  10.0:1 CR gasflowed head | Weber DCOEs | CP "150hp" Cam | Good Parts Ram-Air induction | Distibutor by Advanced | Lightened flywheel | Phoenix SS Exhaust System | HVDA 5-Speed | Good Parts R200B Diff and CV axles | Good Parts suspension and anti-roll bars | Willwood Calipers and Vented Rotors | Good Parts Dual Brake Master Cylinder | Konig Rewinds | Boyd 15 gal tank | Miata Seats and Mr Mikes covers | Carl Visser dash | Mohair hood | Gas-strut bonnet and boot lift kits

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                  • #24
                    On my Bosch it is.
                    72 Pimento w/overdrive - Lilred
                    67 4A Royal Blue - Lilblue

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by lfmTR4 View Post
                      On my Bosch it is.
                      Thanks Lou.

                      So, any reason I could not run my headlights and e-Fan (both via relays) off this terminal? Right now, the relays are powered by wires connected directly to the battery positive terminal. I'd like to reduce the wire lengths if poss.
                      Keith, Huntsville AL, 1971 TR6
                      10.0:1 CR gasflowed head | Weber DCOEs | CP "150hp" Cam | Good Parts Ram-Air induction | Distibutor by Advanced | Lightened flywheel | Phoenix SS Exhaust System | HVDA 5-Speed | Good Parts R200B Diff and CV axles | Good Parts suspension and anti-roll bars | Willwood Calipers and Vented Rotors | Good Parts Dual Brake Master Cylinder | Konig Rewinds | Boyd 15 gal tank | Miata Seats and Mr Mikes covers | Carl Visser dash | Mohair hood | Gas-strut bonnet and boot lift kits

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                      • #26
                        No, wouldn’t be any different than what you have now but I would fuse them. I used 12v self resetting breakers for lights and e-fan power and actuate them through relays.
                        72 Pimento w/overdrive - Lilred
                        67 4A Royal Blue - Lilblue

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                        • #27
                          Originally posted by lfmTR4 View Post
                          No, wouldn’t be any different than what you have now but I would fuse them. I used 12v self resetting breakers for lights and e-fan power and actuate them through relays.
                          Thanks again - that is what I hoped. (Both circuits are already individually fused - I neglected to mention that in my earlier post)
                          Keith, Huntsville AL, 1971 TR6
                          10.0:1 CR gasflowed head | Weber DCOEs | CP "150hp" Cam | Good Parts Ram-Air induction | Distibutor by Advanced | Lightened flywheel | Phoenix SS Exhaust System | HVDA 5-Speed | Good Parts R200B Diff and CV axles | Good Parts suspension and anti-roll bars | Willwood Calipers and Vented Rotors | Good Parts Dual Brake Master Cylinder | Konig Rewinds | Boyd 15 gal tank | Miata Seats and Mr Mikes covers | Carl Visser dash | Mohair hood | Gas-strut bonnet and boot lift kits

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                          • #28
                            I use the extra post to power some things. 1. A direct wire to the intermediate connector on the positive battery cable, this also T's to power my auxiliary electrical fuse block mounted inside the car in the pax footwell (High Pressure fuel pump, 6 fuel injectors, 2 O2 sensors computers, EFI ECU, EDIS6, EDIS6 coil pack, radio, 200W stereo amplifier, power jack) and 2. a sealed 5 circuit fused/relay box mounted in below and in front of the coolant recovery bottle (fan, high beams, low beams, fog lamps and LED strip across the front, extra set of horns). The first set is pulled in by a power relay from the ignition switch, the other is hot battery and each relay pulled in by its respective circuit feed. Yes, the fan runs after shut down, blowing it's air over the hot engine. Not a problem with a good battery and a 100 amp alternator.

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