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  • Alternator Advice

    Just got the car back with working brakes and as is typical... Lucas electricals are rearing their ugly head. Seems my alternator is refusing to alternate. It's a 1976, but no air injection at all. What'd be my best option? Remanufactured replacement, or is there a direct swap aftermarket option?

  • #2
    hi RS,

    fortunately, there are several good options. I'm rusty on the models, output, and so forth, but here is my advice. I have 76, no smog unit, and am using a direct fit replacement for my old lucas. the new one is a lucas, from a tractor. its 70 amp. and i got it from a shop in the midwest. but let me look up what i have. besides my direct fit, there are cool alternatives, one of them, GM, and you can find the swap on brosky's site. http://www.74tr6.com/alternator2010.htm

    what i like about mine, is its lucas, and fits my 76 mount - that dual mount you probably have with an empty slot on top. my alternator is "clocked" correctly...you gotta get smart on that aspect. There is also a Ford Fiesta unit? I think those went hard to find.

    don't quote me on the lucas link, but this might be it:
    https://www.motorcityreman.com/luoe2...BoC9g4QAvD_BwE

    some of us went higher amp to do stuff like electric fan, halogen headlights, and for me, i was planning on some custom AC, so i needed some extra umph. my alternator has been on since 2013? before that, i was getting one rebuilt every few years. and something else you might want to consider. my alternator bearings were wearing out. I discovered my alternator wasn't on the right plane for the belt. what I mean to say is, my alternator stuck out further than it should. just enough. so, once i figured that out, I used washers to shim the alternator back.

    sorry for the fuzzy response. alternator upgrades were a big topic, and there should be some good stuff out there - do some search work and let us know what you find.

    good luck,
    G

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    • #3
      Thanks for the info, G - Did some more digging and found the part number for the Bosch Ford Fiesta unit you mentioned. Think I found one that's a direct fit replacement, 55 Amps. Will see when it arrives this weekend!

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      • #4
        You may need a different length fan belt...
        When I converted, I went to NAPA and got a couple different lengths, they let me return the ones I decided against.
        Driving a 1973 TR6
        Doing ZS carb repairs
        email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

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        • #5
          Good to know... I'll keep that in mind, but hopefully won't need to. I just replaced that last month!

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          • #6
            Might want to check out Auto Zone. Last time I checked they had several models, some with a lifetime guarantee (NFI)

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            • #7
              I just took mine to a alternator shop and they rebuild it in about 1 hour and works like a charm.

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              • #8
                Got the alternator swapped out today - good note on the clocking of it, I did end up having to rotate the case to get the bolt holes in the right positions. Also had to drill out one of them that came threaded so the stock bolt would slide in. Other than that, piece of cake and I have charge flowing back to the battery!

                For future reference for anyone else, this is the unit I got off Amazon:
                https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KL5157Q...ing=UTF8&psc=1

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                • prasnick
                  prasnick commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Would you mind posting a photo or two of the final result? Since I'm adding an electric cooling fan during my engine rebuild, it's probably a good to time to make this upgrade. And just confirm that the pulley is 1/2 inch?

              • #9
                thats awesome. great job, and thanks for sharing for others.

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                • #10
                  Just so’s you know (I’m late to this) you CAN replace the brushes with the alternator on the car that is IF the alternator isn’t charging. Brushes could be the issue but not the only issue. Could be regulator or rectifier or even the armature. I’ve replaced brushes with it on the car and voila. Sounds like you had more work done so it probably needed to go to the shop. I recently had an overcharge condition. Thought it was the regulator. Bought a couple NOS regulators...didn’t fix it. Took 2 of them to the shop. Both needed rectifiers.
                  So much rust, so little time

                  64 TR4 Overdrive Surrey
                  68 TR250 Soon to have Overdrive & Surrey
                  69 TR6 Overdrive Early with fender beads
                  71 TR6 Hardtop Soon to have OD
                  81 TR8 Injected Automatic...the LAST Automatic

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                  • #11
                    I know its' been mentioned before, but if you upgrade the amperage output of the alternator, you may want to run an additional heavy-gauge wire from the alternator to the battery. The wiring was intended to see only 35 amps in the car's charging circuit. I'm not an electrical expert, but others in this group can comment.
                    1976 TR-6 BRG - CF57239U
                    Carbs by Poolboy
                    Rear Camber Kit, Rear Hubs by Goodparts
                    Gear Reduction Starter by TSI
                    Distributor by British Vacuum

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                    • #12
                      Fair point bartman... Definitely will look into doing that.

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                      • #13
                        Follow up question... how would I attach the additional wire to the alternator output? I've just got the stock bladed connector plugged into it -- I can see where it feeds in through the firewall and back out by the battery, so probably can manage connecting that end of it easily enough... any words of wisdom on the alternator end?

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                        • #14
                          the Bosch alt has two large spade connectors that are both 12 volt positive output. You can connect your orignal wire to either one and add a second wire to the other. I included it in the harness and ran it back to the battery cable in line connection point

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                          • #15
                            I have a 55A still running off the stock harness.
                            '74 TR6 CF13007U aka "Mr. T"
                            Custom Blue (Delft-Like) and New Tan (Formerly Mallard and New Tan)
                            Points, Ballast Bypassed, Bosch Blue Coil, Moss Cobalt Wires, Champion RN12YC plugs.
                            Peaks and tweaks, but the spirit of Original
                            Redlines always.
                            My wife is the Driver, I'm just the Mechanic....

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