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  • Body Removal

    I am working on getting the body off my '73, and am having some serious problems with removing the bumpers and the bolts that hold the body on. What are some hints that those of you that have done this before might have?

  • #2
    I assume you mean they are rusty. PB Penetrating Catalyst at your local auto supply store. Spray, wait, spray, wait, spray, wait. I have done some amazing things with this stuff.

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    • #3
      Where are you located? If I'm nearby I'd like to be there to help lift off the body, just for the experiance.

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      • #4
        I am getting ready for a winter project and was wondering if there are any good books to help me through this task. I would like to be there for this also, maybe we could get enough of us to make this job easy> Ha Ha
        Keep your progress posted if you do not mind. Really like to know.
        thanks
        mike

        really willing to help :?:

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        • #5
          Matt,

          I was hoping to draw on your success. How did the body/frame detachment go? Are there any tips that you might want to pass along? My hope is to seperate my dying 1976 body from the frame and start a frame and drive line restoration. Any information would be a tremendous help. - David (Bear11963)

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          • #6
            The body came off fairly easily once I was able to get all of the bolts off finally. The main secret is to get as a bunch of people to help so that you can pull it off easily. The biggest concern for me was what to do with the body once it came off. I made a wooden dolley for the body that supported it so it wouldn't flex, but would allow for me to move it around. If you have any questions please let me know.

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            • #7
              A large hint before you take the body off that will help when you go to re-assemble .. Mark the correctlocation of all shims that come off between frame and body .. It is a major pain in the XXX to shim the body correctly when you have a box of bits ..

              Al

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              • #8
                I guess my only real concern with this is knowing the locaton of the body bolts. I am somewhat familar with most of the undercarrage but not this portion. Any good books or photos that may help. Also, would it be a lot easier to remove the power train to do this work more easily. I am removing the body to restore the tub as well as the frame and suspension.

                Pleading for some good advise
                Mike

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                • #9
                  I highly recommend taking this step if you are serious about your restoration. I had not considered it until reading what others said on this and other forums. I realized I could do it an even do it on my own. I used an engine lift. The access to the frame has allowed me to addressed repairs I probably would not habe even noticed otherwise. I was able to do rust repairs to the frame that would have gone unnoticed and progressed. Repair and reinforcement of the diff mounts had to be way easier than with the body in place.

                  Identification of the mounting points is pretty straight forward. Moss catalog page for chassis give a pretty clear picture of where to look. The ones I had the most problem breaking loose were in the floor pan. Just rust issues. Snapped a few off, but was able to address them after the lift.

                  Don't forget the steering column, brake and clutch lines and speedo cable. I confess I missed a brake line and had to cut it.

                  I used a video camera after the lift and went around to each mount location and commented on the type and number of spacers at each location.

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                  • #10
                    I pulled the body off prior to removing and working on the engine and trans. It made getting to everything very easy. As far a locating the mounting hardware, it is pretty easy to find the bolts, but if you want a reference look at TRF pictures and they pretty much spell it out. I was definitely a novice when I began my project, but am becoming much more adept as I get deeper into it.

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                    • #11
                      Hey guys, Thanks. Ome can only guess what they are going to run into but with the help of others it is made easier. once again thanks.
                      mike

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                      • #12
                        Mike,

                        I did the same to my '76 TR6. My advice is for when you are rebuilding. If you are going to replace the floor pans and rocker panels, weld a bar across the door opening and do only one side at a time.

                        Now you know my mistake.

                        Bobstr

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