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  • POR for Floors...

    Decided to POR-15 the floors for past rust issues....Should be good for another 50 years...


    I removed a couple of rectangular plates which are attached to the floors on either side of the handbrake tunnel.

    Do they have any special angle/azymuth in which they there installed at the factory? (Edit - It appears they should align parallel to the tunnel as the frame runs, is how I'll mount them, although I don't think they were parallel when I removed them...)


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    Last edited by tr6harris; 02-03-2021, 02:11 AM.
    '74 TR6 CF13007U aka "Mr. T"
    Custom Blue (Delft-Like) and New Tan (Formerly Mallard and New Tan)
    Points, Ballast Bypassed, Bosch Blue Coil, Moss Cobalt Wires, Champion RN12YC plugs.
    Peaks and tweaks, but the spirit of Original
    Redlines always.
    My wife is the Driver, I'm just the Mechanic....

  • #2
    Good idea, kinda one and done. Did you do any special prep?
    1972. J Type Overdrive
    Fan Eliminator. PB Carbs
    RG Hubs. Poly Bushings
    RG Trailing Arm Brackets. Fidanza 9Ib Flywheel
    Addco Rear Sway Bar. Gear Reduction Starter

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    • #3
      I used Jasco Prep and Primer for the rusty areas. Appears it is NLA, but there are other rust converters metal preps out there, even one from POR-15.

      Used degreasers for the raised edge tunnel areas where leaking gear oil seeped through.

      Sweeped, vacuumed

      Laquer Thinner and a large sponge to wipe/clean/strip for final application.

      Paint brushed the edges and tight areas, then used a small roller to cover the larger surfaces.

      Oh, and used small hair Bondo to patch/fill a couple of small rust through holes before the above.
      '74 TR6 CF13007U aka "Mr. T"
      Custom Blue (Delft-Like) and New Tan (Formerly Mallard and New Tan)
      Points, Ballast Bypassed, Bosch Blue Coil, Moss Cobalt Wires, Champion RN12YC plugs.
      Peaks and tweaks, but the spirit of Original
      Redlines always.
      My wife is the Driver, I'm just the Mechanic....

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by tr6harris View Post
        I used Jasco Prep and Primer for the rusty areas. Appears it is NLA.
        Must be... When I ran out I couldn't find it where I used to...Lowes or Home Depot, so I just bought a gallon of Phosphoric Acid off Amazon.

        Driving a 1973 TR6
        Doing ZS carb repairs
        email kencorsaw"at"aol.com

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        • #5
          Originally posted by poolboy View Post
          Must be... When I ran out I couldn't find it where I used to...Lowes or Home Depot, so I just bought a gallon of Phosphoric Acid off Amazon.
          Yeah. I am pretty sure I bought a bottle for my stash of chemicals after you mentioned it in some thteads years past.

          It does etch after a while though as it says.

          Recently been using Evaporust as a sit a soak. it works well!

          Bought one of those HF sonic cleaners and did some of my seat parts, as well as put the seat racks in a shallow tub. Came out pretty good. Stole that one from Ed_h!

          Pics later.
          '74 TR6 CF13007U aka "Mr. T"
          Custom Blue (Delft-Like) and New Tan (Formerly Mallard and New Tan)
          Points, Ballast Bypassed, Bosch Blue Coil, Moss Cobalt Wires, Champion RN12YC plugs.
          Peaks and tweaks, but the spirit of Original
          Redlines always.
          My wife is the Driver, I'm just the Mechanic....

          Comment

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