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  • QuickJack no 5000

    Has anyone purchased the QuickPack BL 5000? Does it fit a TR6??

  • #2
    I've had one for 2 years now and love it.

    Its a little tight when you want to get to things in the center of the car (E.G. the driveshaft) but overall its orders of magnitude better than a floor jack and stands.

    You can also use it to lift modern cars which is nice.
    73 TR6
    Libertyville, IL
    My TR6

    Comment


    • 73 tr6
      73 tr6 commented
      Editing a comment
      Thanks Paul- I was worried about the lift points. I thought maybe the rails were too long on the bl 5000, and might be too long for the recommended lift points. I was considering returning to Costco, and getting the bl 3500, which has shorter rails are shorter.
      Goo to know the bl 5000 fits the lift points.
      Thanks again

  • #3
    Yes, the lift points work just fine. My fear was that the rails would not fit between the tires but they do that with about an inch to spare. Its tight but it works.

    FWIW, I slide a 1x6 board across the rear lift point when lifting the car. That distributes the load a little better in the rear. Not sure its strictly necessary but its easy to do.
    73 TR6
    Libertyville, IL
    My TR6

    Comment


    • #4
      Just bought one of these 5000 units from Costco. Phil73 do you have a picture of you using yours? Exactly where do you position the blocks on the lift points?
      1972 TR6 Jasmine Yellow CC79030U
      Purchased in 1973, 3rd owner
      Restored 2009

      Comment


      • #5
        I don't think I have a pic of the TR6 up on the lift. Unfortunately its in storage till March so no pic for a few months.

        Basically the front blocks go under the frame where the rear diagonal front suspension brace meets the frame.

        The rear goes under the frame right where the trailing arms join the frame.
        73 TR6
        Libertyville, IL
        My TR6

        Comment


        • #6
          Thanks Phil73. I don't have the jack as yet but in order to make the quick-jack parallel do you need to put the rear block on the frame around the center of the trailing arm or further out on the corner of the frame? I know you don't lift the trailing arm.
          1972 TR6 Jasmine Yellow CC79030U
          Purchased in 1973, 3rd owner
          Restored 2009

          Comment


          • #7
            Hmmm...struggling to remember the specifics. The car is in storage or I'd go look.

            If memory serves me I position the blocks on the frame just forward of the trailing arms but I'd want to look at it before I was sure.

            One thing you can do is position the front blocks just under the point where the diagonal brace for the front suspension mount meets the frame. That I know is correct. From there it should be pretty easy to see where the rear blocks would go.

            I know I don't put the blocks on the trailing arm itself, they definitely are against the frame.
            73 TR6
            Libertyville, IL
            My TR6

            Comment


            • #8
              I've had the lift for over a year now and use it on a variety of cars. On my TR6, placement of the blocks/jack points depends on what I'm doing. I have placed the rear blocks on the TA when working on brakes or shocks where I want to spin the axle without interference. When changing oil and filter I try to move it towards the rear so the drain pan can fit under the filter. The car is stable on the jack either way. The jacks don't necessarily have to be parallel. A solid location on the frame or TA is more important, I think.

              Comment


              • #9
                Thanks guys! The jack should be delivered today. I'm sure it will be obvious once I position it under the frame. I'll follow up after I test it out.
                1972 TR6 Jasmine Yellow CC79030U
                Purchased in 1973, 3rd owner
                Restored 2009

                Comment


                • #10
                  Just a few pictures of the QuickJack 5000. This makes lifting the car so much easier than using the floor jack and stands.
                  1972 TR6 Jasmine Yellow CC79030U
                  Purchased in 1973, 3rd owner
                  Restored 2009

                  Comment


                  • #11
                    Yes, its truly a night and day difference. Before I got mine I would always have a little internal debate over whether or not a certain task was worth the hassle of raising the car up on stands.

                    Now there's never any question because raising it up is less than a 5 minute job.
                    73 TR6
                    Libertyville, IL
                    My TR6

                    Comment


                    • #12
                      Hi TRIFIK6:

                      Thanks for the pictures. I have heard that this jack system works just fine on the TR6, but had never seen good pictures with the car up on it. The only picture I would have liked is one from the rear to show how close the jack rails are. It appears that the jack rails are inboard a bit and not under the pinch welds of rocker. I should not have to worry about this so much because I stand 5-6 and weigh 150 soaking wet. It is plenty high showing 18-19 inches from rocker to the floor. Heck I could almost stand under there. Now to decide if I want the 5000 or the 3500. thanks again. BTW, nice car.........
                      My car with LSJ engine conversion and other upgrades is dependable fun.
                      http://www.britishv8.org/Triumph/AlbertGary.htm
                      Zoom Zoom

                      Comment


                      • #13
                        Get the 5000. That way if you ever need to lift your DD you can do it. Already had to do that a couple times in the past few years.

                        The jack rails are pretty tight for me. I can get under there but my shoulders are likely to rub on the jacks as I roll under on a creeper. Not sure of the exact distance but...tight, not recommended if you're claustrophobic.
                        73 TR6
                        Libertyville, IL
                        My TR6

                        Comment


                        • #14
                          Originally posted by phil73 View Post
                          Get the 5000. That way if you ever need to lift your DD you can do it. Already had to do that a couple times in the past few years.

                          The jack rails are pretty tight for me. I can get under there but my shoulders are likely to rub on the jacks as I roll under on a creeper. Not sure of the exact distance but...tight, not recommended if you're claustrophobic.
                          Hi Phil73:
                          I have to really give some thought to the 5000 vs 3500 selection; I don't plan on doing much work on our other cars, the Tacoma or the Crosstrek, but you never know. Also there is not much savings to benefit the 3500 purchase. It is however a wee bit shorter in length and lighter in weight as I am told. Not sure about lift height. I do want that 19 inches.

                          Now the good thing about being totally under the car between the jack rails is there is not a lot to do between the jack points, just the drive shaft and some exhaust piping. Being tight for a short period maybe tolerable. I am a narrow body also.
                          My car with LSJ engine conversion and other upgrades is dependable fun.
                          http://www.britishv8.org/Triumph/AlbertGary.htm
                          Zoom Zoom

                          Comment


                          • #15
                            They do have the same lift height but, yes, the 3500 would be slightly lighter. As to the length, the 5000 will fit between the tires on the TR6 with a couple inches to spare. I, for one, have never had an issue getting the 5000 lined up under the TR6. Its a hands and knees job but its quick.

                            To date (after 2 years) I've used the lift twice on a DD. Once on the Audi to replace a failed muffler clamp and once on my daughter's Civic to replace the front discs.

                            I'm not so sure about the only thing between the jack rails being the drive shaft and the exhaust. I think that's mostly true but also consider brake/fuel lines, the clutch master as well as if you ever had to drop the oil pan.

                            You also cannot roll under the car from the side anymore, you have to go in from the front or the back since the jack rails are in the way on the side.

                            Still, regardless of the tight access I would never go back to jack stands. My Quickjack purchase was a game changer for me. Now I never think twice about putting the car up.
                            73 TR6
                            Libertyville, IL
                            My TR6

                            Comment

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