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Adjusting dash & glove box door

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  • Adjusting dash & glove box door

    My refinished dash is installed, and i’m trying to get the glove box door adjusted more flush on the front. Is shimming behind the dash the best way to get this leveled? Is there another technique I should try?
    Bill Connell
    1969 TR6 CC28790
    TR6 project log
    St. Paul MN

  • #2
    I would try adjusting the hinges and latch first.
    CF1634U+O Pimento/Chestnut
    2nd owner, since 1975
    Now in Fair Oaks, CA

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    • #3
      The catch for the latch has slotted holes to allow a little adjustment. Also, there should be a little stop bracket at the upper left of the opening that can be bent a little.

      Ed

      For just a little more, you can do it yourself!

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      • #4
        The upper left stop bracket on mine doesn’t have any kind of bumper, i’ll find a piece of felt or something for that and adjust.

        I don’t have a good photo handy, but the issue is more that the left side fits nice and flush but the upper right corner of the door sits about 1/4” proud of the surrounding dash. There isn’t really any adjustment in the hinges, and the door itself isn’t warped.
        Bill Connell
        1969 TR6 CC28790
        TR6 project log
        St. Paul MN

        Comment


        • #5
          Bill,
          You are probably on the right track with shimming. I had some “twist” in my door fit, but only a 16th, which was resolved with a washer or two at at the back of appropriate dash mount screws. But 1/4” is more serious and you may need to investigate if the metal dash is distorted.

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          • #6
            Rather than a washer on a screw, I used a short section or two of a popsicle stick or tongue depressor that can be placed wherever needed and stays in place when you tighten down the screws. 1/4" does seem like a lot.
            R3
            Jim Herter ͏͏͏͏͏͏͏͏͏͏ Copperas Cove, TX
            Original Owner ֍ 1970 TR6 ֎ CC 50990 LO
            VDU 506H

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            • #7
              I've always shimmed to get everything flush
              1975 Mimosa with a few upgrades/mods:
              Patton TBI
              HVDA Toyota 5 speed
              Goodparts Nissan Diff
              Goodparts CVJs
              AAW Wire Harness
              Miata Seats
              Boyd Welding Custom 15 gallon aluminum gas tank

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by frostr6 View Post
                My refinished dash is installed, and i’m trying to get the glove box door adjusted more flush on the front. Is shimming behind the dash the best way to get this leveled? Is there another technique I should try?
                Yes. From what I've seen at TR6 car shows, not many owners want to go to the trouble to get a flush fit. Maybe they think that's the way the factory meant it to be? Anyhow, just loosen the screws enough to get the corner of the wood dash out a bit, add shims like wood or cardboard, and retighten the screws. Several attempts may be necessary, but the result can be worthwhile, if these things are important to you...

                Dick

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                • #9
                  Mine has a small wood shim in the top left corner..... now it's perfectly flush
                  1975 Mimosa with a few upgrades/mods:
                  Patton TBI
                  HVDA Toyota 5 speed
                  Goodparts Nissan Diff
                  Goodparts CVJs
                  AAW Wire Harness
                  Miata Seats
                  Boyd Welding Custom 15 gallon aluminum gas tank

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Thanks for the ideas, all. Shims seemed like the right approach, but i wanted to make sure i didn't miss another trick. It's not perfect, but much better, and perfectly acceptable for now. I added the finger pull since i couldn't seem to get enough spring from the setup to open the door otherwise.



                    The clock in place of the rheostat is from Formotion, for motorcycles. I added a screw-on mount to the dash and it fits in pretty well. i've also attached detail of my new hazard switch. I didn't want to spend $180 on the correct '69 switch or enlarge the hole for the later '74 switch, so i punted and bought a standard 20A DPDT toggle switch from my friendly neighborhood surplus store.

                    Click image for larger version

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                    Last edited by frostr6; 09-03-2019, 10:17 PM.
                    Bill Connell
                    1969 TR6 CC28790
                    TR6 project log
                    St. Paul MN

                    Comment

                    Adjusting dash & glove box door

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