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  • Engine bay paint or not

    I just did a touch up under the brake and clutch MCs with a rattle can that was supposed to match my 1976 BRG - maybe just called racing green then - I can't remember. It went on pretty easily and I topped the 2 coats with 1 coat of clear. It didn't really match but I can't be sure if the prior respray was the correct color. The rattle can and clear cost about $50.

    Now I am thinking of doing the entire engine bay since is essentially gutted. I hate the idea waiting even longer to get this back on the road - now going on 18 months, but once I get the exterior painted I am thinking that I will regret not doing the entire engine bay. I was hoping for suggestions about doing this was rattle cans or should I buy a lower priced HVLP gun and borrow a friend's good quality compressor and learn by doing? Any recommendations for suppliers of rattle cans would also be appreciated. I bought mine from the local Finish Master shop.

    Thanks!

  • #2
    Hi Craig - I think you'll probably regret it if you don't. Might as well while you're in there! I recently did mine. Local paint shop mixed the base coat and put it in cans for me. I highly recommend SprayMax 2k clear coat. It's a hardened clear and went down beautifully. I honestly don't think a gun would have given a better finish! Here's a link to the clear I used....
    2K clear coat with very high chemical, gasoline, and weather resistance for high-quality and long-term sealing of repair paint jobs and new paint jobs on cars and motorcycles.

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    • #3
      I would for sure do the entire engine bay, and since it sounds like you are getting antsy to get it back on the road, I'd use the rattle can method.

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      • #4
        The paint shops can match your color with a scanner and it will match perfectly. Unfirtunately you will have to get your car there. And as said above, they will put it in spray cans for you.
        1972 Sapphire TR6 #CC84,something

        1959 Red TR3 (Wife's)

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        • #5
          Definitely paint the engine bay the same color. You say you are going to paint the exterior, why not do it now and have the paint shop paint them both then put your engine back in. That way they’ll match for sure.
          72 Pimento w/overdrive

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          • #6
            Thanks for all the input. Trailering to paint shop makes a lot of sense. But also involves a lot of other prep work that I was hoping to postpone until after getting it on the road again. Any ideas about how many rattle cans needed to do the engine bay. I am thinking 4 but maybe that is too many. 289 tiger - do you remember how many you used? Thanks again!

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            • #7
              Click image for larger version  Name:	DSCF1102 (6).JPG Views:	1 Size:	252.8 KB ID:	520831

              This picture shows my trunk/boot after spraying from a custom blend $25. rattle can.

              To paint an entire engine bay, less bonnet, four cans is about right- 2 per side.
              It took 1 can to paint my spare tire well, with a light touch-up on the sides.

              What you want to consider, though, is the quality.
              Rattle cans put down the base color, the paint can match the color just fine, BUT- you will not get the resultant shine that a professional can lay down with a good spray rig.

              If you want your interior parts to be as good as the exterior body panels, do as suggested above- have the pro paint everything.
              It'll cost you a good bit more, but in the long run it will be more durable, look a whole lot better, and increase the value of your car.
              Last edited by SapphireBlue72; 03-16-2019, 03:52 PM.
              Walt
              CC80954U '72 TR6 original condition/sold 16.500.
              poolboy rebuilt the Z-S Carbs. Philstr6 rebuilt both rear hubs.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by CraigJ View Post
                Thanks for all the input. Trailering to paint shop makes a lot of sense. But also involves a lot of other prep work that I was hoping to postpone until after getting it on the road again. Any ideas about how many rattle cans needed to do the engine bay. I am thinking 4 but maybe that is too many. 289 tiger - do you remember how many you used? Thanks again!
                I believe I had 4 base color cans mixed and used about 3 or maybe a touch more. If I recall correctly it was slightly cheaper to have 4 mixed. Always good to have a bit extra sitting around.
                Last edited by 289tiger; 03-17-2019, 10:40 PM.

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                • CraigJ
                  CraigJ commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Thank you! Time to ponder.

              • #9
                Well, I have been pondering this for 5 months and it is still not painted. I did have the underside of my trunk lid scanned and they said they got a great match. So I got 4 Sray Max base cans filled with Cromax chromabase and 2 cans of 2K clear. Now I am trying to figure out how to patch some holes in the fenders, the largest of which are just under 3/8" I don't have a welder and don't really want to pay $150 to get a mobile welder to come and do it. I am thinking that I could glue some sheet metal on the under side and then fill with bondo or ? Is this a bad idea? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

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                • #10
                  Are you talking about the drilled holes on the inner fender? I wouldn’t glue metal there. If you don't want to weld it, you could potentially use a small patch of fiberglass on the back and fill to smooth it on the top. Or just out some rubber plugs in them and paint away.
                  Last edited by frostr6; 08-12-2019, 03:32 PM.
                  Bill Connell
                  1969 TR6 CC28790
                  TR6 project log
                  St. Paul MN

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                  • #11
                    Craig I just went down that exact same path and I can tell you its a slippery slope but I can also say I'm very happy with my results. I started out thinking I would touch things up, that progressed to thinking I should paint with a rattle can, from there I ended up buying an el-cheapo HVLP detail gun from HF and spraying 3 coats of single stage paint. I also ultimately ended up pulling the engine out just so I'd have room to paint with the gun. Took a long time and I was antsy to get it done but I don't think I'd have been happy with any result less than what I ended up with. The gun from HF was a but finicky but it ended up doing a pretty decent job and it only cost $13 so if it never works again I won't care.

                    Doing it "right" will definitely take longer especially when you factor in the time to paint things other than your car as you practice painting but...I'm happy with where I ended up every time I pop the bonnet.

                    My signature has a link to the work this year along with some details (Spring 2019 Work). Happy to chat on the phone as well.
                    73 TR6
                    Libertyville, IL
                    My TR6

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                    • #12
                      Thank you, guys! I am now leaning toward using some Everglass short strand filler or Glass Lite for the larger holes. Again, any insights would be appreciated.

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                      • #13
                        I was in a similar situation - I used a POR-15 fiberglass kit to repair the shelf under the battery - eaten away by rust. I also had a hole down in one of the corners of the drivers footwell - I suspect that fluid leakage from one of the master cylinders had eaten away the paint and rust ensued. I fashioned a “corner” from big box sheet metal and riveted it in place, sealing it with some form of caulk, painting with POR-15. 8 years later, still good, and you can only see it from under the car. I had four rattle cans made up with PPG paint, which was enough for the engine bay and spare wheel well. Not a great finish, but adequate
                        Dave C
                        '72 Sapphire #CC82360UO
                        Chapel Hill NC

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